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Higher ECT also means higher engine oil temps resulting in more crankcase vapors - could be t-stats - could be the fan clutch coil is insulated by 1/8" covering of road junk - or could be slipping: might need the manual adjustment to the temperature cut-in point - by radiator is clean, meaning...

If AC\Delphi is still selling the originally spec'ed Robertshaw t-stats, they each flow ~15% more coolant than the stant\equiv versions, which is why they were spec'ed for both single and dual t-stat coolant manifolds

Won't hurt a thing in a street motor, long as there are no cracks radiating from those areas - looks more like where the engine sat for long periods with a little moisture in the cylinder(s) - coulda been where a swelled glow plug flaked off - if you're gonna race this motor, you know the...

;)

Ok, my bad and no prob then, Dave - my bro drives new 18-wheeler tractors that're so emissions-strangled and limited, they're not fun to drive, anymore - and the ECM logs any changes to anything, turning tattle-tale in the yards - Big Brother is watching you..............

Certainly does......down at the EPA , and all federally-mandated state DOT inspection stations, beginning 2010 - defeated emissions equipment = ticket, no inspection sticker, repeat offenders can lose driver license - new 18-wheelers have been required to comply since '06 - so, yeah, hang out...

Plastics have always made better insulators than heat sinks or radiators................

Heath's is bonded - otherwise, I suggest cleaning with lacquer-thinner to remove all oil\grease\excess thermal-compound, apply Permatex Gray RTV around the perimeter joint where the module attaches to the 'sink, squeegee-in with the little finger to achieve a 1/4" bead all-around, then RTV the...

Heath's is waterproof for mounting down under the front of the truck in the road-splash stream - the FSD module is not waterproof, with it's exposed driver transistors - only the weatherpak connector is waterproof, if assembled correctly - thus the bonding question, as bonded is sealed and...

Yours is bonded and waterproofed to the large aluminum plate?

Each oil squirter only squirts at certain positions of the crank, when that particular piston is in positional range to be cooled - otherwise they'd just dump oil pressure, much as you're seeing, and really froth up the sump oil - also, iirc, takes a oil-squirter crank to work in a oil-squirter...

Did that fix it?

DTC 36 Closure Time Long also results from low battery voltage due to batteries, cables, grounding, harness connectors, etc - makes the FS slow, unresponsive - also causes slow cranking, long starting in severe cases - dragging starter motor can cause low voltage condition in START

Dipstick should be seated in the tube to seal the crankcase, allowing the CDR to function properly, as should be the oil filler cap in it's tube - 200kmi is getting mighty long in the tooth, so should have considerable blowby compared to 50kmi - if it's not missing badly and whuffing hard...

Since the torque-thrust is in the negative direction, or retarded, would behoove you to loosen the nuts, align the ESO vertical, cinch'er down, do KOKO to reset TDCO - scribe a line across IP and timing cover - scribe a 'nuther line on the timing cover 2mm in the direction away from the turbo -...

I've posted detailed operation incl how to clean and test on the 3 major 6.5 forums, incl this one - low-pressure hi-volume spring-loaded silicone-rubber diaphragm regulator\valve - spring keeps valve open against Baro - closes as crankcase pressure rises to ~6"H20 over Baro - Baro is ~29"HG -...

Quicker if you slosh it around, using nitrile gloves from harborfreightdotcom - otherwise, leave it soak - Diesel fuel is a lite oil - paint thinner is oil-free - can also be cleaned very well with autozone engine cleaner in the orange\white container - flush with hot water from the spigot on...

There is a procedure to salvage the original functional PMD when removed for FSD service, but get the Heath (or equivalent assembly of choice) complete, save the original for spare....oops....my bad: there is no equivalent to the Heath assembly - try it, you'll like it..................

CDR can be cleaned with Diesel fuel or paint-thinner - not lacquer-thinner, acetone, methyl ethyl keytone esters, trichlorethylene, carbon tetrachloride, sildenafil citrate, etc................ There are three (count'em: 3) CDR's available for the 6.2\6.5 1 - 6.2 n\a 1 - 6.5 n\a 1 - 6.5...

IIRC, oil feed is pump to cooler from cooler to block galleries, incl oil pressure gallery - if you have a 6.2 vacuum pump laying around, cut the top section off such that you can get on the shaft with a VSR 1/2" drill - use that to check oil pressure without running engine, will easily drive to...