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Focus on this. No dash lights = NO ECM Power! Offhand I suggest it's the ignition switch.

You will be better off towing the RV with the 350. On the OEM turbo I bet the MPG will be the same towing: the 350 and the 6.5TD both getting around 7 MPG. Unless the 6.5TD has a bigger turbo (bigger turbo gets better MPG towing) and all the cooling system updates, HO water pump, 9 blade or...

The 3 bolts on the IP gear will not all go in if that happens.

It's not physically possible to jump the IP gear out of time as there is NOT enough clearance in the chain drive housing to allow the gears to un-mesh. I have tried it. However, the timing chain will stretch out to very very sloppy from the normal shock IP loads and I have seen the sprockets...

Also: Sniff test to see if it smells like gasoline.

Ok so prior diag is ... Do NOT let these people touch this engine again! Knowing the CPS is bad, but, they change the IP for lack of a tool?! Then they decide to use engine destruction in a can. You only use ether when the engine is expendable and it's a life or death emergency. Otherwise FIX IT...

Still have the old IP? Where is the "new" rebuilt or whatever IP from? Lots of krap out there being sold. Video on youtube and link here. The exhaust will tell you, and us, a lot about what is happening. Smoke puffs etc. Remove the oil cap and check for "huffing" blowby. Any codes present? How...

I replace both the high and low side valves EVERY time I touch a system. Debris from compressor wear and/or heat damage ruin em. Dorman, if they only make ONE good product, here it it: 902-025 A/C Port Plug. Seals off the high side with a leakproof plug cap they way it should have come from...

You have checked this as part of the troubleshooting today I assume? Nothing gets a free pass. Check codes before your ground cleaning clears them. I would also verify your fuel pressure to the IP is ok esp at higher RPM. Clear return line off the IP and look for bubbles. Vacuum hoses are...

These engine have a governor. The IP returns an insane amount of fuel to the tank. So you can get a very good idea of what the LP pressure is just by snapping the throttle WOT and leaving it at max RPM a few seconds to get a reading. Better to do it under load, yes. But convenience and you only...

I called Walbro and asked why I couldn't get these anymore. They retooled their factory during the slowdown from the lockdowns and they simply haven't made another production run of these. One other difference of note is the higher pressure pump would pump on a timer regardless if it needed to...

Walbro FRC-10 (FRB-5 is for the DB2 non electronic IP.)

Be able to purge air when changing the fuel filter. Override the fail prone OPS. Get fuel flowing to a worn IP to help cool it off so it will start... I suggest: Check for codes. X2 on the clear return line. You 'cleaned' the tank sock, why? Did you replace it with aftermarket gasoline...

RVing is enough work and problems as it is. You have picked about the worst "disposable" Light Duty diesel engine out there. To add insult to injury: the Asthma Attack turbo GM ignorantly slapped on the engine gives you the fuel economy of a 454 gas engine working that hard. This engine and...

Have you set or verified the warm engine idle speed? Offhand a stuck relief valve in the "new" oil pump. Because I deal with extreme heat: when the oil pressure is down measure the pan temp with an IR gun. It may be overheating it's oil. I would sample the engine oil to make sure it's still...

Unplug the compressor coil and see if it's still trying to turn the compressor hub, part on front that's slowly turning.

Is the A/C on when it makes noise? Take the belt back off and spin the compressor pulley by hand if you can. It's either a locked up compressor or locked up bearing in the pulley.

The High Pressure switch is either a (most likely) retrofit to R134a or a Factory 134a system. 1993 was a weird year for that I read. This compressor will immediately start leaking again like it has in the past. The black buildup of dirt is sticking to A/C oil that leaked out. The body orings...

As you walk around a parking lot one may notice the lack of noise as the vehicles equipped with this CS-130 firecracker are less and less on the road. Must have been there to warn pedestrians. Just charging a run down battery was enough to push them over the raged edge of the thermal envelope...

Just replace it now. The R4's are good for maybe one season before they leak --> run low on refrigerant --> fail to return enough oil --> debris glitter bomb the system as a courtesy --> Lock up or make noise. Maybe in less extreme temps they make it two years. Seriously post a picture of...