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Seems anymore most of the younger guys are calling them OBS

If you want a new harness contact @Glagulator

https://www.facebook.com/reel/638885339307972/?mibextid=rS40aB7S9Ucbxw6v Anyone tried this stuff?

Obviously not very equal

Haven't tried sealed everything I find is greasable

I have yet to find one that lasts like the original. Even AC Delco parts aren't as good as what came on the truck.

I only get 30-50k, ball joints seem to be worse

I had one and knew several people that had them. On the old diesel it was common to hear of people getting 30+ mpg

Need to hook up a DMM to the pump and verify it's losing power. Could be a faulty oil pressure sensor

I haven't had good results with redhead

Looks more like the offset is wrong

that area above the body line and to the left of the door/fender seam is where I would be suspecting something

I'd want to know before I spent a bunch of time and money. Helps you decide what to do repair or replace. The other thing would be to pull the inside door panel off, then you can look and feel how bad it is.

They make a magnetic tool to find out how thick the Bondo is...

The hinges are adjustable but I think that thing has been in a wreck and has had bondo job done on it

If that screen is plugged you won't get any fuel out of the FFM. It does slide up and off the tube it's on but can be tight

It would be hard to test unless it fails completely. Alot of times it will show continuity but when you put a load on it it won't carry it.

I've had 2 trucks with about 300k apiece never replaced a ujoint or carrier bearing. Anymore you might be introducing crap parts

I'd be suspecting ign switch. Not the key part but the electrical switch down lower on the column

I used the ac delco rocker buttons got them thru Oreilly's. Finished everything up today, ended up not being able to use the spacers I made for the bracket that hooks to the manifold, it pushed the wiring too far back and made it too short to reach the baro sensor. I did use my xtool scanner to...