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Do you mean with regards to spacing? The quality of the SSOR mounts is second to none: all laser cut and fully TIG welded. They clearly work in his conversions, and I believe the OP of this thread didn't have any issues, however I count 2 people that have contacted me with regards to this...

So I’ve been driving it around after work, trying to straighten out the kinks. Temp sender works now. Somehow I clipped it when I was thinning the harness. 1 out of 50 ain’t so bad. I’ll take it. radiator: so I did as what I believe most did, which is use a 2nd gen Cummins rad in the same...

Thanks a ton, that makes sense and will be an easy fix. I'm just curious how it got disconnected. I've been meaning to buy a factory service manual, just haven't gotten around to it.

Thank for looking that up. I’m not intending using the temp to control anything except the instrument cluster gauge. Unless it’s connected to the A/C system or something.

Suburban ECU

Delco sender. Removed it from the driver side under the head, bought an NPT adapter and set It in the Cummins. It has always had a single green wire. I’ll keep looking through all data.

I think what screwed me up was the charts don’t EXACTLY match. The wire from my sender is a single green, the charts say yellow. Does anyone know if that green goes somewhere else before it went to the ECU? If not, can I just run it into the old port? I don’t want something small and dumb to...

Mystery solved: when removing pins from the ECU connector, keep C11, “ECT Signal”. I’m just glad it’s not a bigger issue.

The good: Took it on the freeway, tuned the controller a bit. Still needs some fine tuning, may consult a professional to get it running perfect. Drives nicely, tires are loud, actually hear the tires engine over the exhaust, no droning. I mentioned I put a hose connector with a bleeder...

Took her out for a little spin. got trans cooler fan wired up with a relay and switch on the dash. worked like a charm. installed a bleeder valve on the upper hose, after a short test drive, upper hose was bone dry. Coolant in overflow tank was topped off. Replaced t stat with new, check...

For alternators, I found this on another board. His truck was a gasser, but this is good info for 6.5L swap guys

You’ll have shorts if one isn’t plugged in. Do your best to make it work with both unless you know how to get around that.

You’re in luck, I stopped by for a few mins to take measurements for a sway bar. Snagged a pic. It needs a locking stud to keep it locked in place. That’s a project for another day though.

I'll get some pics tomorrow night when I'm back at the shop. User Crummins on some other boards has pics posted of his gmt400 suburban if you want to check his out and tackle it tonight.

Swap info that just came to mind: Intercooler piping. I used a 2nd gen intake, but with my A/C i had to cut off the "wing". Cut up and welded the left and right hard pipes from a 2nd gen to make one single pipe on the driverside, and used the "S bend" passenger side pipe from a 5.9CR on the...

Short test drive tonight.

the good: Got the truck out on the road. It’s quick, I don’t know what the build history of the engine is, but I know it’s not a normal 160 horse 6BT, unless the HE351CW I installed made THAT big of a difference. I am thoroughly impressed andI haven’t smiled that big in I don’t know how long...

Looks like I need to find a friend with one. $200 for a very rarely used tool is a tough pill.

I don’t think i’m getting coolant to the very back of the block. I let it run for some time and the heater core got hot, but I think there’s still a giant air bubble in the block because the water temp gauge never moved. Remedies? Water temp sender is in very back of block.

To get the factory headlights to work without going to the “work truck” front clip, you have to actually modify the upper side tanks of the 2nd gen intercooler. I don’t have any pics of mine unfortunately, but there is another guy that did it, his name is crummins and he did a swap with a 1996...