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Sorry about your incident Stoney. I too have an issue with AAA. Over the summer it was very hot and needed a tow. Two hours later AAA finally showed up and the driver was all pissed off that we had kept calling his dispatch to get an ETA because they kept stringing us along. Once loaded, the...

Sounds like maybe air in the fuel system.

My crank didn't break but, my block was cracked at the #7 cylinder. I bought the Optimizer and never looked back. My original mileage was only 93k so I figured my truck (1/2 ton) was worth the cost of a new motor. I looked at like this; many hot rodders spend 10's of thousands of dollars on...

One other Thing to consider is; did you swap the same configuration of engine? There are different models through the series of trucks, vans,etc. I'm mostly referring to the "pre-cup" sizes. Your 1/2 ton would have smaller pre-cups (light duty) than say heavy duty version with larger pre-cups...

Could be air intrusion into your fuel system while sitting...evident on start up by rough idle. Can't speak to your modifications but, if vac pump is inop and their are no codes then perhaps there has been some kind of ECM reprogramming done or someone removed the SES bulb from the instrument panel.

I would pull all the glow plugs therefore you could look around each glow plug hole for signs of moisture i.e. coolant. Additionally, I would hand turn it a few revolutions at the flexplate using the appropriate flexplate turning tool...one shouldn't turn it by the harmonic balancer bolt...

I had it done on a Ford 6.9 IDI diesel which cracked from a freeze plug into a downward angle. I did this knowing that I would be able to keep my eye on it. Having said that, I would be skeptical about a repair inside the block that I would not be able to check on.

Congratulations...you must be doing everything right!

Isn't it amazing that there can be such a difference between parts brands!

I'm pretty sure they are NOT studed, mine was not. If yours turns out to be please let us know. I wouldn't worry about adding studs. I also thought about head studs and I was talked out of it unless I was going to add more than 12lbs of boost, which I do not intend to do. Enjoy your new engine!

John at Unique Diesel steered me in the right direction with recommending the proper configuration i.e. pre-cup size etc. I believe the configuration he suggested was for a normally aspirated engine even though he knew my truck was turbocharged.

I only have maybe 1500 miles on in the almost 2 years since I installed it. I do not have any significant mods yet other than a mandrel bent cross over pipe, 3" inch down pipe and 4" out. I happen to live in California 🤮 but plan on leaving the state like the rest of the smart tax paying...

I bought a long block from Unique Diesel (formerly Peninsular Diesel). Unique is one of the few direct GEP factory authorized dealers. I had a few weeks of lead time but I'm very pleased with the engine and service. Although a bit pricey, I haven’t looked back and I have all the confidence in...

Heatsink looks under sized compared to all others I have seen. I believe the heatsink is the most beneficial element of this combination. I installed an FSD heatsink near my front bumper and I have never looked back.

As far as I know they are no longer available from General Engine Products (GEP). If installed in 4x4 truck you have to replace the oil pan since the bottom girdle takes up room. Supposed to be built very strong...wished I had one.

If you are using a K&N type air filter that can eventually cause you issues. The oil from the filter will collect on the tiny wire sensor that is the MAF sensor. Try removing the sensor and clean it with spray cleaner like CRC electrical cleaner. May solve your issue...it did mine.

I take it the new heads are for a truck configuration (side mount turbo)? Sounds exciting, would love to see pictures as the build progresses. My guess is that your replacement engine will have a reluctor wheel. I believe the mechanical injection requires that while the computer controlled used...

Might check the turbo. Sounds like it's not boosting. Check vacuum from the vacuum pump, should be 17-19Hg (approx). Also check hard vac lines (tend to crack) from vac pump to solenoid. Also check vacuum at turbo, I forget what the Hg should be there. I've had similar issues, wound up changing...

I would think so... I don't believe you want to bend those injection lines. IIRC, I heard somewhere that the injection lines have a coating on the inside of the lines and bending them would damage that coating.

Well, definitely let us know when you figure out what is causing the vibration. I tried replacing mounts when I installed my new AM General motor. I tried the polyurethane mounts but, I think I got the wrong ones as they would not fit in the clam shell. Wound up using the Anchor brand, worked...