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I don't know all of the details. I don't know why the timing cover was removed during the water pump replacement. I don't do that level of wrenching on my truck. The mechanic is one who I have used and trusted since I got my first H1 back in 2018. He did the original P400 swap - with the...

When the water pump was replaced back in September - my mechanic said he had to use a "thicker" gasket in order for the dowels/shafts to not interface with the timing cover. So he did notice them touching the cover but perhaps it wasn't enough.

Note that this was with the "thicc" gasket.

Thankfully the engine itself appears to be as unscathed as possible. The pieces of the broken dogbone are accounted for in the oil pan but there still was glitter. On Monday we order all new bearings/gaskets/seals/gapless rings. Already have all new ARP hardware ready to go. Also taking the...

Figured I'd go ahead and post here as a warning to others. Timekeeper set installed in a brand new P400 in 2022. 20k miles on the motor and Timekeeper set. Around Thanksgiving I noticed a knock coming from the engine, then found glitter in the oil. Thankfully the pieces of the exploded...

Will asked me to post the details on my UORVA turbo for my H1 (centermount). It's sold by ModMafia exclusively. They market it as a "300HP" turbo. Not sure if that is a standalone claim or not - but I'm 100% positive I'm pushing at least that much with all of my P400's upgrades and doodads...

Just stumbled across this great thread from 2019 discussing the very same issue that I've been hypothesizing about. Indeed it seems that the PWM frequencies from the PWM fan controllers are too high for an EV clutch. Looks like a fellow 6.5 guy was running the EV clutch back in 2019. Any one...

Just found this thread over at another forum from last year. Seems a guy did a similar setup on his GMT400 conversion van. He said he uses a "P59" to control the PWM fan. Does anyone know what he means by that? https://www.gmt400.com/threads/electronic-fan-clutch-information.62805/

The hall effect sensor in the clutch has a 5V reference signal. I've picked up a couple of cheap hall sensor displays on amazon to see if they could work for our application but I haven't had the chance to really dive into making them work. Finding one that works off of 12V DC but has a 5V...

An update on my experiment. Just as a preface, my H1 has a curb weight of about 9000lbs, and my trailer weights about 2000lbs. Brand new P400 (well, about 12k on it now) running about 15psi of boost with the HO injectors, new style waterpump with BRF, HS rockers and a tune. Every other...

No - because when that switch closes, the bottom half of my switch illuminates. It only engages when I have the A/C on. Testing has been done largely without the A/C on.

As @Will L. can attest, the H1 actually suffers from the addition of electric fans. Since our issue isn't with staying cool at idle but rather staying cool at speed. The electric fans actually impede airflow that the mechanical fan would draw. The only time the electrical fans are beneficial...

I eliminated the tee. The adapter I cannot eliminate as the probe is actually long enough to go to the bottom of the thermostat housing even with the adapter in place. Yesterday's drive to the gym and back (my debugging trip) was MUCH better. The disengagement was still longer than I'd like...

Ahhh... this might be the culprit then. Definitely a rockauto clutch - listed as "GM GENUINE" although I have no idea if that means AC Delco or not. It does disengage but its on for far too long. Perhaps the issue is the lack of airflow through the H1 grille hitting that coil to cool it off...

See my post above. It's actually acting completely opposite of that.

Beginning to think that this change isn't going to work for my rig. I got the engagement temp to the point where I can hear the fan engaged when my ECM-read temp hits about 201-203. However, once the temp drops below 180, the fan will stay engaged for 5 more miles or about 10 minutes before it...

I installed the Flex-a-lite controller yesterday and confirmed its operation. In the process of tuning the engagement point as its still running when the t-stats are closed. I put it in an aluminum project box since the area I mount these controllers is rather exposed (above the front driver...

Just an update, still running the Mishimoto controller until a new fitting arrives that will allow me to use the Flexalite controller sender in the t-stat housing. Going to add a tee with a bleeder valve too so I can ensure that the system is properly air purged. Should be able to install it...

Really because this is the most accessible area, and also because I don't really need the fan to kick in before the t-stats open anyways. Getting to the rear of the engine on the H1 involves ripping out about a third of the interior so if there's any alternative to not doing it, I try not to...

Just wanted to follow up on my experience so far. The Mishimoto controller is working but as others have pointed out, isn't ideal. I have it set at a point where the highest temp it kicked in at was 208'F (The H1's t-stats don't fully open until 212'F OEM, mine start to open at 180'F) under a...