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Cut and paste the questions from this post. Make sure you DO THE TEST on a few steps that needs testing. Post it back with your results of the test or information. https://www.thetruckstop.us/forum/threads/6-5-engine-diagnostic-troubleshooting-checklist.6300/

I agree, it may be separate issues.

On BioD, at least the way I understand it. BioD although it comes from Used Cooking Oil, it is NOT the Cooking oil anymore (no grimes or stickiness). It has to go through a separation process to become BioD. The by product is Glycerin aka Soap. The Waste Veggie Oil have to be filtered really...

For batteries you need to test them one at a time. LOAD TEST NOT voltage test. If you don't have Load tester, bring it to the part store and they will test it.

Make sure fuel is good condition, LP is operational. Jump the LP while cranking. Oh ya, make sure PMD is connected also. All batteries terminal are good. It will take a long crank for it to start so Batteries need to be in tip top shape.

I hope the higher price Fram XG or Wix/Napa XP are still good.

There were a lot of discussion on marine injectors in the other forum. First, it is very difficult to get an original Bosch nozzle for marine, if there is, probably not cheap and it should not otherwise CKO. Second, for some reason, this engine cannot handle marine from the limitation of other...

I am trying to understand the context of the DTC. Is this a new DTC after the truck is running or you just replaced the IP recently?

Load test the batteries one at a time?

What is "Cat primary and secondary filters"? Is the Glow Plug (Wait to Start) light turn on?

That stud is not standard. Some starter come in metric (m6 or m8) or SAE (1/4). In my case, when I replaced my starter, the one in there and the new bought starter have different size. I found it out by the need to use different socket.

APP issues have their own set of codes.

Unfortunately, new IP or PMD or both may be the cause of the truck problem. I bet the seller replaced the IP and did not fix whatever issue and sold it.

Try to temporarily eliminate the PMD extension by hooking it up to the original harness directly. Just making sure that extension cable is good.

The nut to the starter rear bracket is difficult to put on. That is why a lot of people (may be mechanic) are too lazy to reinstall. Although, it should not be too difficult to do with a lift. I did it on the ground and it took me a good 30 minutes to thread it in and start tightening. In...

Thanks for the update. I don't like to throw parts to fix thing blindly but that FFM is more than 20 years old. 🍺🍺🍺

Looks like a Dorman PMD attached to a small heatsink cut to the size of PMD? The picture does not show how thick is the base mounted onto the PMD? Which is a very important to dissipate the heat. The heatsink fin looks too thin vertically but too thick horizontally? Fin is intended to increase...

2.5" with a lot of pinch on the Down Pipe, makes the effective diameter less than 2.5". I am not sure if anybody have measured the effective diameter which is the smallest diameter on the pinch portion of the exhaust. There are a few pictures on the pinched Down Pipe in the 6.5 TD forums arund...

I replaced the 2 o-ring on mine initially. a while back. It was still leaking from the location where the wire comes out of the fuel heater. There is no way, I see, to seal it. So, that is why I ended up replacing the FFM with a new one. If it is any consolation, the new one have better seals...

I am not sure if the whole FFM is cheaper? than just the heater. It is already assembled to minimize the chance of leaking.