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I have the AD244 in mine also. I leaned to live with the rpm discrepancy. It has been like that for more than 10 years.

Not a suggestion just pointing out that the Flowkooler is not available anymore. "Out of stock with no ETA available"?

It needs an extended crank with LP running by putting 12V source into the LP (relay jump).

Step 0 (zero), make sure there are fuel pumping to the filter from the tank. Then you can measure the pressure.

You may not get 20 mpg again after the new engine is in there. The biggest improvement I read before was changing the Differential gear ratio. That got nothing to do with the engine itself.

Here is the bottom line. Does it have pressure when the truck runs? If yes, the prime before start duration really does not matter. The problem is in 94-95 trucks when the LP is run by OPS when engine is running. In this case, the Relay mod will be very important because there is really not...

In here, in my insurance I can add emergency towing coverage. I have used it once and it is better than AAA.

Flight System is good. Make sure PMD is on a heatsink even if you are just testing it. The stock cable under the intake can go bad also. Make sure the fuel system is operational like Lift Pump, Filter, etc. Load test the batteries one at a time. Make sure all grounds are good, connectors are...

I will try a known working PMD. Get that PMD out of the hood with the heatsink instead of ontop of intake.

A long shot, If you ever took the IP to a Stanadyne shop, ask them to document why the IP is bad.

Seriously, though this is what the IP rebuilder needs to check.

Who do you buy the IP from?

You can always broke the old one as long as it comes out. If you replaced it last year, is it bad already?

Great find. Hopefully, that will fix it. Get ready for an adventure in replacing CPS.

The PMD ground, is it still attached to the IP? Not to the heatsink. I am assuming the PMD is on a heatsink. How long is the PMD mounted on the intake?

PMD extension cable?

Somebody at the other forum suggested this tool. It has the capability of Tech II. https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01NACTAY8/?coliid=I30ERCCUNWLN6P&colid=288N17OIKZKLH&psc=1&ref_=lv_ov_lig_dp_it I am just passing on the information. I have never used it since mine is a 95.

This is the proper way to determine if a KOKO is needed.

Just make sure they don't get the engine from Bostic or Jasper.

KOKO is not something that you do for the heck of it, there needs to be a reason. There was another thread on this a while back. Not sure if the poster ever come back or resolve the problem.