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Here's a pic of a rear caliper. Besides cleaning, blasting, & powder coating stuff to look nice, I swapped in hex bolts for the OEM torx bolts that can be plenty difficult if lots of corrosion - if fastener is corroded, you can still get a good grip on hex bolt with vice-grips, etc . The brake...

It's a label/sticker on the bottom of the glovebox when you open it. Says "Service Parts Identification" across the top. Search "Chevy trucks RPO codes" & look at the images. Expect you'll recognize the pictures - one of those things you've seen before but don't really notice until you're...

Forgot my dome light is in an overhead console out of a newer Blazer, so may not be room in GMT400 dome lights for the 48 smd panel? But great light output where you have room to place them. I also used the 20 smd 194 style bulbs in the console's 4 map lights. Took a little trimming of...

I put a couple of these in my factory dome light housing: http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00FKPJJNY/?tag=jhuntlink-20 Two are overkill, but can't argue that they light things up. Practically speaking, to the point, I think it unwise to light them going down the road at night as it wrecks...

Tie rod ends are spoken for/no longer for sale.

(2) Moog K6693 ball joints - never installed or used (2) Moog ES3609 tie rod ends - never installed - used for mock up & painted, never pressed in - no wear (1) Moog K6654 - pitman arm - painted, never installed (3 groove's in splines) Ball joints were $41.97/ea from Summit Racing: $42 for...

I've seen an instance on a small block gasser truck, where they got the poly inserts fit/crammed into the clamshells in the wrong orientation & it caused a lot of unnecessary vibration transfer. It was due to the way the steel straps in the inserts interact with the engine side mount. Look at...

Here is a pic of the GMT800 ball joint section that presses into the forged arm, showing OD. Compare that diameter & depth it seats to the balljoint part# you pressed into your '99's forged lower arms.

Don't know. Does your Burb have the stamped steel lower A arms, or forged? If forged, the hole the ball joints press into may well be the same. If that is so, could then just buy & press in the GMT800 ball joint to match the GMT800 knuckles lower taper. I didn't compare the GMT800...

I bet that will seal just fine with the cap you're making. If you decide the ferrule should be further into the taper, I wonder if one of the common step drills might provide the taper you want but a little deeper? I use step drills more & more in fabrication because they leave such nice...

In person, does it look like it's shaped that way to accept/mate & compress a ferrule? At least brass is soft & easier to work with.

Can't tell for certain from the picture, but the gauge ports have an inner chamfer that's designed to compress a single cone ferrule with a (direct fit) cap like you're making.

Yep. Believe there's also a factory toothed ring terminal ground that goes to battery. I sandwiched it btwn alt case & bracket with the Kopr Kote for good measure.

Gotcha. I had to go back & look again at the gauge pic & look more closely at the ports. I'll go thru my adapters selection tomorrow as have bought a few of the gauge & gauge sender adapters selections over the years. Bet they came with that cap/ferrule if I haven't used them yet.

If looking to find tie rod ends to fit a new application, below are a couple links to a good file listing many, many tie rod end numbers, indexed by length of shaft. Good reference. Also for the record, Moog's Techline # is 800-325-8886. http://www.flyingeyeballs.net/uploads/Tierods_3.pdf...

The homebrew drive pressure setups I've seen typically adapt the line out of the exh manifold up to 1/4" or 3/8" NPT, then do a union filled with steel wool, then adapt back to 1/8". There is a ready made filter sold for this purpose that includes a way to blow down/eject condensation & soot to...

On the 1/8" ferrule/compression fitting caps, you can find them with a ferrule that's flat toward the cap side/cone shape for compression on the other - the ones like that more reliably compress the ferrule square on the line. The ferrules with cone shape on both ends can work, but they're a...

Yes. I think I should have reamed the GMT800 knuckle's tie rod hole with a 1.5"/foot reamer. That would have enlarged the GMT800 knuckle's tie rod hole/taper at the correct 1.5"/ft taper and fit the ES409R outer tie rod end as designed. Overall adapting GMT800 knuckle would then require both...

The ES409R tie rod taper info is 0.676" - 0.593" = 0.083" diameter difference over it's spec 0.66" taper length. (the taper length spec was throwing me because the actual stud tapered portion length is notably longer than that). But believe they give the spec that way to get to inches per foot...

The 706 was a gasser & bought new the year I was born. Was both main tillage tractor & chore tractor when newer. Good, very handy size, tractor - but that gas engine needed & got rebuilt more times than I can count. Diesels are definitely better for longevity.