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Finished the installation today. Test drove the truck, and the temps are all over the place. Granted it's got straight water in it to check for leaks, but it doesn't seem to be building pressure. Upper hose is very soft, and when the bleeder on top of the thermostat housing is opened there is...

Cut out the battery tray, used the 3lb persuader to flatten the fender a little. Fits good haha. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Spent some good time wrenching on the truck today with my buddy kyle that's been helping along the way. Today we got the new water pump on, new tstats in, new radiator hoses in, check valve for the injection pump, 2/0 battery cables on, deleted the vacuum pump, and relocated the passenger side...

Ain't the truth. Once it's road-worthy it's gonna get a can or two of degreaser. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Last year I purchased Heath's cooling kit.. I am taking the truck halfway across PA in 2 weeks so it seemed like as good a time as any to install it. Also replacing the radiator with a new one I bought a couple years ago. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Time for some cooling upgrades Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Also, what do you guys think of the oil showing up around where the comp housing meets the bearing plate? Time for seals?

Checking over the truck today as it is scheduled to drive 4.5hrs across PA in a few weeks and I see this: So I am now looking at turbo wheels. I can't remember if it's a 60x83 or 60x86 but in talking with Nate, I have found what looks to be a good billet drop-in: I figured it would be...

He says it's a 6.5 radiator, we will see Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Watsontown. Central-ish Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

So a couple months ago I ordered a Heath cooling upgrade kit. I know I can build it myself for less blah blah blah.. anyways. I had debated putting it on my current engine because I have gotten this one up to 230 before, and I didn't want to use $750+ of parts on a beat engine. Well it looks...

Looking good - no surprise!

Most turbos that you will run into are going to be twin scroll. A Team is, Holsets are, a lot of Borgs are. GMx isn't. Essentially shrinks the exhaust housing temporarily to get it spooling, then opens to allow the entire exhaust housing to be used. Poor man's VGT. Stone-age VGT. But it works.

Bunch of parts for sale for 6.5 trucks. Turbo: GM-4 bought new from Heath Diesel in 2012, has about 30,000 miles. No issues, removed for Holset upgrade. $200obo. Upper intake manifolds: VIN F non-EGR, one cut shorter for aftermarket turbo. $50obo each. K47 air box: stock replacement for...

14 around town/mixed driving. 18-19 on the highway. Highest I ever got was 23 on a trip to Cape Cod. But that was a once in a lifetime thing.

To clarify, I am not proposing to use a 96 single t-stat, but rather a 92-95 engine with the factory single t-stat. I am confused where you say that a single t-stat restricts H.O. pump output, but that you run a single stat with an H.O. pump and it works fine? Your conditions are much more...

WarWagon, the truck rarely tows. I am not building it to tow, but I don't want to cook it each time I do. In my signature, you will see a couple items that you mentioned have already been addressed: 4" exhaust, S.S. oil cooler lines, and a Holset HX40 hybrid. My main question here is, I want...

Okay so here's the deal. I am planning a center mount turbo build for my truck. I have been stockpiling parts such as exhaust manifolds from a van engine, and a 2nd gen Dodge intercooler. I have also stockpiled some cooling parts, Heath's super cool kit, and a new radiator. I don't plan on using...

Conestoga is now showing a "Super Moose", claiming 205cc fuel... who's gonna be that guy?

John @ unique diesel had previously recorded 304rwhp. Aside from him, I don't know of any CREDIBLE hp claims. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk