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I'm not sure. On my 4L80e the cross over pipe prevents removal, but there was enough room to see and inspect the engagement. BTW, if you partially drop the cover, DO NOT allow the engine to turn over and start!!!! The cover will catch the ring gear and break things.

Do you hear the click? Even if you don't, the solenoid could still be ok. Electrical checks: If you have a meter, check the solenoid for continuity. Measure from the start wire (small wire) to the starter motor lead wire. (bottom contact of the solenoid) The solenoid grounds through the...

If the solenoid tries to engage, but won't start, its bound up. Either the bendix is rubbing on the ring gear or the lever is worn out. If it is fully engaged (pulled the cover and looked /w main battery disconnected hitting the key), and the starter does not run, either the contacts are bad...

They normally don't need shims. On the Housing opposite of the Solenoid, it will say "NO SHIM". Some early ones did require shims, 2mm according to the shop I just bought mine from. I had to put 0.5mm of shim in my new one because it would hang or not fully engage. I was measuring...

With the electronics, the sensors need good grounds otherwise you get noisy readings. You have 3 items that need ground, Engine, Frame, Cab. Since the most current is needed by the starter, good heavy grounds between the engine block and the battery are needed. A back up ground is done to the...

Good info

2X If the balancer elastomer looks ok, leave it and monitor. If you change it, make sure a new crank bolt and new washer are used and torque to 200ft/lb (http://www.thetruckstop.us/forum/showthread.php?612-Torque-Specs) The bolt and washer recommedation is from an auto engine rebuilder's...

2x Synthetic oil has boosted mine. Replacing my boost control solenoid also up'd my mileage too. It was leaking and not giving me full boost. A T/M would have fixed this too, but fixing the solenoid did not require a tune change. I typically had been 11 to 12 in urban driving...

I checked the ebay link, looks right. I've always gotten mine from a local diesel shop. In google searching, I could not find bosch fuel line. But German made, mercedes, or braided push on line.

Like I said, in a pinch they are an option. If your peeing fuel, they are cheap enough to get to you around until the good stuff comes in! I tried them once, in a pinch. they lasted 3 months! Now I keep a stock of the Bosch return line, just in case. Btw, the Tygon tubing, LP1000, used for...

Disturb one and break another. Replace them all. Best is the Bosch push and lock return hose. No clamps, no leaks, resists heat. See a diesel shop, possibly ebay. In a pinch, napa has a cheap set of return lines and clamps. But they don't take heat well, but work in a pinch.

Forget the gasket, just use Silicon. Make sure the tin is flat and clean. Clean the head surface and around the edges, at least 1/ 4". Nice bead of Silicon, bolt it down. This is my experience. The composite gaskets will leak. If the surfaces are not clean enough or the cover does not sit...

I had started to creep back over there some recently. That's about it, when the big change happened i stayed away. Too bad, they are like that but its their loss. Most 6.2/6.5'rs that need real help end up over here anyway.

Was the intake gasket intact? The burnt area is close enough to the EGR exhaust passage that a blown out or bad gasket could have burnt the wires. The uniformness of the burn is interesting. An electrical short should have blown one or two fuse and killed the engine. I would not expect...

Double check accessory drive, see if it separated. Try to move the serp belt back and forth by hand. My started clanking similarly. After only a year on the new motor, I was crying until I found the drive rubber separated.

On my dual setup, one regulator always kicks in first. I put the lower voltage alternator on the right side to drive the Tach. Otherwise, yes the higher voltage regulator will turn off, giving no output for the tach. Each time I replace an alternator, I have to try it, then swap them if the...

The computer relies on the fine positioning from the optical sensor for timing adjustments. Mechanical IP is what you need. Until someone can develop a mod that uses some other type of sensor.

It would be better if I didn't hammer it so much too.

Since I was updating a few things, though I'd share an observation on my Dual block heaters. The other day had cold weather and snow for the overnight. Expecting to start plowing early in the morning, thought I'd be nice to the neighbors. To quite the truck down, I plugged it in. Both 600 W...

Update: Synthetic Oil Switch So, its been 6 months. This morning was the first near 0F morning. Truck sat for 10 hours in 10f or colder. 2F at start up. Turned the key, waited for the "Wait" light to go out. The truck cranked right up, like it was 30 or 40F. In this weather condition...