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the turn/brake wire and the markers are 2 different wires.

are the fuel lines still the factory steel ones? don't forget to check to short rubber section that goes from the tank to the steel section. You may be chasing a pinhole, that's all it takes. have you tried the jerry can method. a short section of hose just to feed the pump. it'll tell you...

a dab of grease on the rod holds it nicely, out of the way and no fuss.

the truck's got a 3 + low(sm465). the OD would be nice for the MPGs but when you can get a used tranny for $100 I can live with it.

that's why we're all here, to help each other out. the bleeder itself might be the problem. they get full of junk if the don't have covers on them. keep us posted

one note for when you do the hyrdoboost. the brake rod from the pedal isn't attached to the boost side. I found this out when I had to change the mounting for my pedal setup. it's just kinda placed inside a 'cup'. as for bleeding the brakes if you've got some time before you do it, jack up...

NOTE FOR BURNING OIL the height sensing valve(the one on the diff) was on the R/V series(square bodies 88-91) along with the C/K 88-?. the C/K ones are different though. it may be on the older square bodies but IDK for sure

when you bleed the brakes, which method did you use? 2 people(one at the brake pedal, other at the bleeder), a bleeder kit(little bottle with a check valve), or gravity bleed? I know I ask a lot of questions. I'm wondering it you either have a bit of air in the cylinder itself or the shoes...

this ones got me stumped. the only spot that can affect the flow to one side is the 'T' in the line. but it just that, a 'T'. the're's nothing special about it. the new line is the one with the lower flow right? when you checked the flow, was it free flow(open line) or restricked cracked open...

LOL semi-metallic is it's own kind, I just forgot about it. the 3/4 are the 20/250/2500 series. when you check to flow to each brake, where was it checked at the bleeder or the line before the wheel cylinder? when you did you rear brakes did you clean the drum with anything? was there any...

best I can tell ya is that they were on the square bodies. I happend to notice them while hunting at the wreckers.

I've seen them on the 3/4 and 1 tons but I wasn't sure if the burbs had them.

more questions for ya which set of brakes lock up, front or rear? are you a 1500 or 2500? is there a valve(can't think of the proper name) on the rear brake line? it'll be mounted on the diff with a arm hooked to the frame/body. what material of brake pads are you using? organic, ceramic...

ok. well the hydroboost is a big part of the brakes. what are the brakes doing or should I say not doing? by the way, the hydroboost looks worse than it is. you have 6 bolts total and the lines. that's it

most of the time the lines are rusted and in a bad spot. if your lucky and they come off your doing great. Is there a thread somewhere on your brake problem?

the pin is on the proportaning valve itself. IIRC it has a rubber cover over it. as far as the possibility of no brake light, see if it comes on when you turn the keys on but not starting(bulb check). might just be a burnt bulb. A word to the wise. If your going to change the proportaning...

first note, drum pads are called shoes. did you remember to centre to valve after bleeding out the brakes? there is a pin on the end(PS I think) you have to have pushed/held in. make sure that's done on the last pump of the brake pedel. is your brake light on? it's another indicator of the...

for me it's a lot of Metal. some classic rock. just gotta watch what I listen to while driving. Music is a great motivator, the catch is in motivates the skinny pedal.

ok got some numbers. battery voltage is 12.26V the alt excite wire (turns out to be either tan or pink,not red) is only showing 11.4V the puzzle gets bigger or are the pieces getting smaller:???:

this is a CS-130 ALT. I'm trying to track down a 'no charge ' problem. also have done dash/cluster work(may be related) the 2 wire plug on the back(red/brown), the red is suposed to be battery voltage with the IGN on? the brown is just for the gauge? where is the red wire get it's power from...