Search results

how long are the belts lasting before you have issues? heated shop??? I've never heard of such a thing:hihi:. I get the great outdoors to work in. now I'm jealous.

the v-belt system works fine. just use the gates brand belts. I know they're also marketed under the NAPA gold line(same belt) the big problem is that a lot of the replacements are a hair skinnier and don't fit into the pulleys right. I found the alternator belt was the worse. ok back on...

the are 2 switches. one just controls the gauge, it's in the ds head near the front. the rear one is the fast idle, cold start advance. I feel your pain about the controller sticking. Mine did the same thing with a brand new set of plugs.:eek:needless to say the manual setup went in a few...

the switch is called a inhibit switch. it controls fast idle, cold advance and the glow plugs. the thread you linked to is correct. it sounds like yours is stuck in the closed(cold) position. confirm it by either a 12v on both sides when hot or a continuity/resistance test.

nice find. glad to hear it started. the ground should be an easy fix now. EDIT:as for the title change I wonder if they could add it to the ground checklist as well. it seem the 6.5 are extra picky about them.

the big question is why it won't crank by the switch with the relay in place. I'd still check the amount of current you have at the relay. something is not adding up here:rolleyes5:

keep us posted. we like to know the outcomes. if you have a way to check the current, let us know what you found. little things sometimes are the key.:thumbsup:

I take it won't let you re-instal it using the current license? is office the only thing you really want/need off of it?

I think your right track with the melted wires. the relay getting power in run not just start makes me wonder. does the relay get power in run when the truck is forward/reverse? just trying to take things outta the equation.

the other spot I hate to say it could be is at the IGN switch. how did the connector/wires look when you changed it? I know it's a PITA to deal with but still a possibility. testing at the neutral switch in run would tell you forsure

you could be getting the voltage but how's the amps look. I admit it's gotten me more than once. think of the OPS issues, 12V but no amps. you don't happen to have a 12V light bulb with a couple of wire leads kicking around? just a 25 watt bulb or something.

if you want to keep your old files and such you could just use your current hard drive as a slave or just put it into an external box/ enclosure. they should just exchange but 'should' is a very dangerous word when working with computers. BTW I feel your pain. until June this year, we were...

ya I missed that one. coils don't care which side is live. did you ever try the gearshift wiggle? put it into neutral and wiggle the gears shift back and forth through the neutral range.

we've all ran into the plastic part issues on hoses. I've learned the galvanized pipe can get you out of a lot of jams.

ok here's what I found for the pin numbers. pin 30 is constant(confirmed) pin 85 live from IGN switch pin 86 should be ground pin 87 goes to the starter. that's the basic wiring setup for a 4 pin relay. IGN(yellow) should have 12V before the neutral switch. you can check the neutral...

I'll admit my 6.5 knowledge is limited here. what if you just cut power to the IP so it wouldn't add more fuel while cranking? I know on the DB2's it the pink wire but not sure on the DS4 setup. if you crank it over without more fuel going in, it should clear it out. when/if it tries to start...

the turbo is easy on a 6.2 along with all of the electronics. you use the lower half of the 6.2(block and all) and use the 6.5's upper(heads,intake, IP, and exhaust). IIRC the only other thing you'll need is the timing cover and crank gear for the sensor. the 6.2's do have a lower boost...

here's a good thread by MGW that explains alot about the oil pan differences and what fits what(years/body styles) http://www.thetruckstop.us/forum/showthread.php?25278-DaHoooley-back-from-the-dead-as-a-6-2-truck-The-Phoenix-rises

it the truck in my sig. right now it has a 3" running down between the passenger inner fender and the cab/firewall. the problem with that is that it rattles against the body. there's not quite enough room to run the 3" where the gm 400's(88-98) run theirs.

so you got the best of both worlds then. mech. IP and updated transmission.