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ity wasn't so bad until the started using the brine crap. nothing like liquid saltwater to eat away a body

here what I've got to deal with http://s1349.photobucket.com/user/cghlndn/media/floor3_zps56be765d.png.html?sort=3&o=0 http://s1349.photobucket.com/user/cghlndn/media/floor1_zps294c84cf.png.html?sort=3&o=1

what I need to deal with is alot of rust on cab section. and since I don't use the crew cab as a cab more as storage space. tight now I need to redo a section of the floor braces(busted) along with the rockers. for the amount of work to fix all of the cab issues, it's about the same just to...

I currently have the 4 full doors and a long bed. but the crew cab are hard to find now days. time to do some figuring. if I could do bodywork the stretched burb would be an interesting project. you'd gain almost 3ft compared to a normal burb. but alas I suck at bodywork.

no luck on the mounts fitting. the standard cab uses a cross member for a rear mount. I also found out the frame width are different IIRC 33" for mine and 40" for the normal setups. I just need to make a stretched burb.:rolleyes5:

now to find a cab. well finding one isn't had it's fining one that the floor is still there and not rusted out is another story. I don't suppose you know anybody with a standard cab to measure from?

no sleeper but not a bad idea. I was thinking more along the lines of an 11ft flatbed. I know the r-series came as a cab and chassis setup. what I was thinking is if the standard 2 door cab will mount to the front/middle cab mounts.

I guess I forgot the part. a 2 door cab on the crew cab frame. I need to know of the cab to frame mounts are in the same place.

is there a difference between the standard cab and the crew setup? well other then the extra two:rolleyes5:. are they interchangeable? I've got some severe rust issues and debating to switch it over. I know it was and option just not sure is there are any differences. and yes the will be bed...

if it's got a lug opposite the return fuel line then it's a 24V setup. the nice thing is though you can just switch the tops and your done.

a 24v solenoid wouldn't have enough power to open up properly on a 12v system.

the IP you replaced has the same terminal locations as the original. I know the pump came in 12v and 24V. the terminals are the only big difference. also verify a solid 12V on the pink wire and the top cover has a good ground reading.

so right now you have fuel going the IP and returning? but nothing makes it to the injectors? have you cracked and of the lines it the injectors to help bleed some of the air out?

I'm it the other category. what are the buttons your referring to.:hihi: It's been so long since I wore a shirt with them.

I have the just short of bombproof phone. water and dust tight. that and it's taken more than it's fair share of drops. they built the phone well but the charging cable sucked for it. now it's a couple wires taped to the battery terminals when I want to charge it.:mad2: touchscreens and I...

nevermind alot easier on the starter. the clicking noise, any idea of a general area it's coming from? there's a couple of possibilities, a bad glow plug controller/wiring, power supply for the IP. I know there are a few more things just can't think of them.:mad2:

10 psi before the filter sounds close the mark. figure in a 2 psi drop by the time it gets through the filter would put it right around the 7-8 pi sweet spot. as for my earlier post, I can't say I seem to remember deleting it.:shrug:

for the mechanical to electric pump is an easy changeover. the mechanical pump comes off and put a blockoff plate in it's place. the plate is just for a small block chev. the electric pump can be mounted on the frame somewhere convenient and you only need and IGN controlled power supply. if...

couple of questions. which turbo setup are you using, banks, gmX or something else. I was just wondering why you removed the fuel pump to do an oil line. when you replaced the pump did you make sure the pushrod was pushed back. they'll slide back down on ya. and welcome to the truck stop...

I was thinking the same thing. one cable on it's way out might just be enough to do it. have you tried swapping the batteries to the other side? that way if it's the battery it won't make any difference but if the cable is bad you'll know right away.