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Not if it pisses your off I wont...:dita:

You can do the D-max rotors without having to remove the wheel bearing assembly? This is a welcome change from my 98, I was so broke in college, I pushed my rotors as far as they would go until I changed them, I actually went through the plate material and into the cooling fins on the outboard...

I suppose you mean gay ass trailer queen because that truck actually does haul a 5th wheel around? But whatever to each there own, you think a truck is gay because a guy spends his hard earned money and sets it up the way he likes it, I think your gay for knockin him....But to each there own right?

Lol you guys crack me up you guys dont suppose it helped at all that the 2 of you in the lead have been calling out everyone from every diesel forum you guys can think of? Lol the thedieselgarage usuall has like 50 hits a week, I will say one thing you made that site probably the busiest its...

I bought the motor for $1600, im not selling it though, bad wording on my part.

On another note, I got a low-mileage 96 12V with a 180 P-pump, motor fully loaded for $1600, check cumminsforum competitiondiesel dieseltruckresource all of there classifieds deal with alot of cummins engines. A month back ago or so there was a P-pumped 12v that loaded motor that went for like...

Run the NV4500 just as strong, can get them usually for about $1500-2000 less, and there are I wanna say like 150# lighter than the NV5600 and alot shorter. Dont know if you have intentions on straight axleing this or what. But your perfect drivetrain combo right now would be a 94-98 Cummins...

So thats proof your trying to build a 500 HP 6.5 then? Never before have I read somthing as stupid. Have fun, Im done with this thread. Bill heath maybe the only one with $19K in a motor, but I never said anyone was getting there trucks for free.:confused5:

Thats fine, I'll look the other way to your intellect, if you arent willing to accept the FACT that some people have spent more than $19K trying to build a 6.5 that will be at stock D-max levels. Building a high horsepower 6.5 with the intentions of competing with modern Stock Common-rail...

I came to my senses along time ago, and realized I cant make the 6.5 into something it wont ever be. Thats why theres a Cummins there now, sure the 6.5 is great if you dont care about speed or power are fine with stockish power levels cept for the bolt on here or there, or just dont want to...

Wow, you cant read, fairly certain I said for what some people are dumping into there 6.5's including purchasing price could of just bought a Duramax and been far ahead of the game.

Stock LB7, Stock 12v or VP Cummins, stock 7.3 Stroke. But forgot about hanging in there with a LLY, LBZ, LMM, Common-rail Cummins, maybe you'd have a chance against a 6.0 Stroke but lets not get ahead of ourselves guys. For what some of you have into your 6.5's your coulda came close to buying...

Theres a square slot for the master cylinder insert it and give it a 90* turn, and then connect to the clutch pedal, Im assusming you have that hole it just needs to be punched out. The clutch pedal just has to 2 buttons at the end of it, push the buttons in and insert it into the slot it fits...

must be nice to have be able to find trucks that old rust free...

Got the Motor, trans, and transfer case in this weekend. Just took the torsion bars, and trans crossmember out and slid it all in, in one piece. The truck is back now on its own weight. I had to relocate the torsion bars back 1", ran out of time before I could throw in the crossmember, I may...

It'd probably take me years, but after 3 years of going slow, and now driving the g/f cavalier, I have all the motivation I need to get this going, that and all the money Im putting into this, it'd kill me to just leave it sit. Looks like I'll have my 4K rpm governer spring kit, #60 valve...

One more shot of the motor in its final resting spot, fits in there perfectly. The remaining shot of are of what I had to cut or "massage" on the truck. I hear alot of people talk crap about the 6.5 to cummins conversion, saying you have to smash up your truck and cut it all up and it barely...

A couple more pictures of how the motor mounts work, a shot of the clearence between the firewall and the clearence between the differential and the oil pan. I can fit my hand between the motor and the firewall, which is more than enough room back there, and theres nothing to reach back there...

Some pics of the motor set in the truck, resting on the tacked motor mounts, a picture of the 3/8" motor mounts, and another picture of how the motor sits on the mounts.

Got the motor in this weekend, took me a good while longer to make the mounts, didnt help that I changed the design and the way I was going to do it 3 or 4 times, but in the end I think I decided on the best way. I just used3/8" steel to mount to the motor and then the 3/8 coming off at a 45*...