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I will try that. Will it help bleed the IP as well?

I'll try to answer your questions in order jrsavoie= Did you test for voltage at each glow plug spade connection? Yes 12v at all 8. At this point you do not have to disconnect them But you can if you wish. You can also test for amps around each individual glow plug wire as previously described...

I got the GP's done but ran out of daylight before I could replace the LP. I bled the fuel system twice with the old one so there are absolutely no air bubbles. Still won't fire so I'll do the LP tomorrow and if that don't do it I'm not sure where to go next.

First chance I've had to do anything all week. I tested the LP pressure and it's only making about 3-4 psi. It also took it about 40 secs to pump a quart out the t-valve. I'm going to get the GP's done today and try to get the LP replaced as well. Thanks for all the help so far I'll keep you posted.

I hot wired the LP from the fuse and it is running but it sounds pretty sick. The pump almost sounds like a small engine knocking when it runs. I rebled the system right with it hot wired. I don't have access to a pressure gauge so no idea how well it's pumping. I need to get new batts but I...

I didn't get the last 4 plugs done before it started raining. I'm going to try to get them done tomorrow and try to bleed the fuel system completely.

I last drove it the day before thanksgiving. That's the last time it has run for me and it didn't stall or hesitate at all. It idled smooth and had plenty of power at speed. In fact it ran better than my last truck (a 92 F150 gasser). The only thing I noticed wrong was the fuel gauge fluctuated...

Right now it's about 50 degrees It has about 3/8 off a tank How would I check the fuel for water? I am starting to wonder if the lift pump is just weak. It looks like it's original to the truck so I may have to change it just to be sure.

I'll try that and see what happens.

I opened the Fuel filter bleeder and had my brother crank it to bleed the air out. It had plenty of pressure at the filter, not so much at the t-valve. The glow plugs have a full 12 volts and are working.

It's still in the stock location as far as I can tell. No wires going to a remote mount. Anyone have a good relocation kit cheap?

I did try very little ether before I put the plugs in (didn't want to fry the new ones) and it did try to go. I'm starting to think it's a fuel issue but I need to finish the other 4 plugs before I condemn the IP or injectors. I'm working alone outside so it's taking way too long to get it done.

The ones I've done so far have been rusted pretty bad on the spade. I tried to start it after I got the first 4 in and it made no difference. Still acts like there's either no fuel or no fire. At this point I'm starting to think it's the IP or the injectors. If the other 4 don't help I'm lost.

I got the 4 plugs on the left side but can't get to the right. Is there an easy way to do it without removing the inner fender? The plugs I removed looked pretty burnt. Found another freakin nest in the air box.

It's just the exhaust pipe and muffler. So I'll need the crossover? Anything else?

Also, the guy I got it from included a descent 4" turbo back exhaust with the truck. Are there any mods I need to install it and make the most of it? I figure since I'm doing these other repairs I may as well throw that on while I'm at it. I assume I'll need a new/better down tube and gaskets...

That's a good price but this is my only vehicle right now so waiting for shipping isn't ideal. I've been checking and double checking and the only ones I've found all 8 in stock are 60G's for $8.99per. Everything I've gathered points to the plugs so I'll toss those in and hope for the best...

My tester doesn't have a buzzer so I set it on ohms (cheap pos). I went from the spade to the manifold and got no ohm reading at all on 3 of them on the driver's side. After I checked those three I called the guy to see if he knew when they were last replaced and he didn't know. That's when he...

I'll get them in tomorrow and hope that does the trick since I've checked everything else. The only things left that would cause it is the IP or the injectors themselves, right?

The ones I found for $8.99 are AC Delco 60g plugs from O'rielly's. Are those better than the OEM plugs? Would running a dedicated switch instead of the factory one help it start easier?