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I'd suspect a rubber line failing internally that acts like a check valve, flap of rubber lays flat and lets the brake fluid push past and engage brakes, when pressure is released and fluid begins to exit, rubber flap flops into path of fluid and holds some back. My unpopular opinion is that...

The GM factory turbo would like a word... lol The one positive of the horribly inefficient high drive pressure of the GM turbos is good engine braking. A GM turbo and working air conditioning seem to provide adequate drag for me coming off a mountain, but I do have a manual transmission which...

I think i'd get rid of the air shocks and try something else, I have always been fairly impressed with the ride of the gm 1 tons compared to other vehicles. With the overloads I wouldnt go after an overly stiff shock, something near stock rate, I run bilstein yellows on my 2500, plan to run them...

unless you bought your 98 new, im going to guess that a previous owner deleted it due to a leak or collision damage repair. Outside of flushing the fluid occasionally which is a good idea ABS or not, im not aware of any routine maintenance that the ABS system requires? Did that crew cab happen...

Cunningham also offers a nifty little install tool for the bushings, a socket, flat washer, and bolt works fine, but the install tool works great too! :)

Use quality slave components and you wont be dropping it, aka avoid chain auto parts store stuff. I was using the aluminum slave from o-reillys thinking it was better than the plastic for my external slave 95, and after swapping it 3 times I gave up and swapped it out for a LUK plastic and...

If you dont have disc brakes, leaf springs, and solid axles at all 4 corners, you dont have a HD. One needs to pay attention to any potential differences between a 10K GVWR pickup and a 11K (2wd ) or 12K (4wd) chassis cab though.

All this work to gut a reliable braking system and I bet you still have an automatic transmission. If simplicity is the cornerstone to all your mods, I would think a manual swap would take precedence over everything else. I guess call me crazy, but I always thought these had a good brake...

Last I checked the 96-07 bellhousing was still available new. The 92-95 definitely isnt, and was not the best design, kinda crack prone. All a guy would have to do is buy a clutch kit and hydraulics for a 96+ application to run the 96+ bellhousing, definitely the best route to take.

has anyone bought one off ebay, if so, any trusted vendors on there? looking to buy one, cant ever seem to find a deal on a genuine tech 2.

thank you!

Can ya'll point me in the direction of the threads discussing the fake tech 2s? Ive been watching ebay for a while and really dont want to spend 1500+ for a good used tech 2.

No, bracket that sandwiches between motor mount and engine block, solid rod with a eyelet in each end, one end to bottom of bellhousing, other end to motor mount bracket.

War Electronics maybe? EMP proof DS4? Lol

Ok, since the thread was resurrected, figured I better chime in. In 2016 I bought a 06 Duramax factory ZF6. While I enjoy it for the most part, and it has proven to be fairly robust, the parts availability has me spooked to ever swap one into something else. The cost and availability suck, and...

IIRC someone determined that a AC Delco professional grade 99.5+ water pump had the same housing as a 96.5-99 4 bolt water pump and to get the proper housing tweaks for the balance flow one had to stick with the OEM grade Delco water pump. No idea which thread had that info unfortunately.

Anyone have a torque value handy for the nut that holds the front output yoke on? I'm 1000 miles away from my service manuals. I'm on #2 with my 2767 Milwaukee, which is about 140 lb ft, as I use it on my lug nuts on that setting and double check with a torque wrench. I thought the manual said...

Also, is ultra black rtv resistant enough to atf for the seal retainer plate or do I need to buy some anaerobic sealer? I have some anaerobic on hand in KS that I used on the 93 case that's in it now, but none here in Idaho, I really should just pack it in the pickup...lol I'm leaning towards...

Pay attention to your front yoke setup and case length. 95+ is a direct yoke, 94 and older should be a flange. Shaft length is different so these are not interchangeable. Case length differs slightly, which might be problematic for your driveshaft. Unfortunately I ran into this on my 95...

thank you! just used it tonight.