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Me too, I can only drive one at a time, but it seems most days they all get used. Maybe that's how I justify having four insured? :happy:

Years back I seem to recall 3 high idle settings for OBD-1, I think if you used one (of two), switch's you would get 1050, switch the other and it would be 15-1600? Switch both and you would get 1800? I have 2 chips for OBD-1, one has high idle set at 1050 (Westers), the other (Dennis') is that...

I hate vehicle electrical for this reason. The first wires I would check are under dash grounds.

With that being said, I think it should still downshift via the PCM.

If the column shifter is in the correct position and the transmission is also, I think the cable is NFG.

I would have to read up on it again Marty, the shift lever is put through it's motions and the tab is manually pushed back in. At what gear position I can't remember. This just sets things so when the gear selector is in a position the trans is in the same position. I believe all else is PCM...

40 years ago I was told inj. lines were the same length. I had the ball break off of a line and an old mechanic told me I should get a new line made. I put a brass ferule on it and 20+ years later it's still working. In a perfect world that is probably ideal. My world isn't perfect.

I must be having an "Old Timers Moment" cause I was thinking it was the opposite way around?

That tells me gauge or sender. No reason it should overheat if everything else is good.

Last I saw he was selling on Ebay, and a quick check on his activity was in Oct?

Honestly, I've seen no difference between 94-98, I will have to check. They are all steel.

Just one for each side, I assume this is correct but I only have LED's on the back. I tried a couple of those and didn't have any luck, they may have had factory defects? So I went with the resistors

I'm not sure if you got my post mixed up with another. I have LED tail lights on one truck, I did have to use resisters to keep them from hyper blinking.

I have no idea but think you will be OK, paper towel is at least soft and non abrasive. If it sticks in a ring groove it should burn out.

Pretty sweet build.

My factory inlet barbs 0n the IP are brass, my J.D. tractors have multiple brass fittings.? There is one Stainless steel that is magnetic, (Ferritic), it is a cheaper type of stainless. I was unaware 304 and 316 could be made magnetic by working them. Could it be residual left by the hammer?

Looking at the better pics, they seem symmetrical. My guess is they are wrong for the truck?

Agreed Les, I can't remember if there is a left and right. By my memory they are the same, even then I marked which was which. I used the Poly insets and rebuilt the ones on the 1 ton.

I know on one of my trucks the down pipe was touching the cab after I put the ATT on it. I had to ream the slots out further on the down pipe elbow to change the angle.

Welcome, we love pics