Search results

I just don't like how it mounts, a T4 flange that just barely seals against the existing T3 flange. Granted, I don't own one. Running a couple Holset T3's.

umm, could one of the moderators move this thread, it's, well, in the performance section. This is a troubleshooting question. yeah, thanks.

I'll take the downpipe when you get the system, looking at just doing a 5" stack in the dually.

This is also based on OBD-I, probably a different story (programming wise) on the OBD-II.

Thanks for that info Mikey, you're right that is a necessary feature.

Depends, the info you seek has already been presented, but I'll explain further. Check out the casting number, if it ends in 567 then the heads are the later variety. The 567 cast began the change in injector angle in the head itself, for two specific reasons. The first is that with the angle...

73 eh? Shoot, oh well, don't have same dually any more, traded it to another member TMart. I now have his old 1993 Dually 6.5, so still a dually member... You don't want pics of mine, maybe the next one... J

darn, good find, I'da bought it too. I've been wanting that exact configuration, except maybe a 1995. J

Interesting thought... A .060" overbore 6.2 is 4.036" There are .060" os pistons for the 6.2.

The Silvolite pistons for both the 6.2 and 6.5 crack. They have a very weak wrist pin boss and will crack. The other issue is that whatever they're using in their aluminum is just brittle, the crowns crack too. All this under normal usage. I have a buddy that ran a set and his failed under...

Found one solution, the obvious one, buy the tooling, take care of it. These engines are such a pita to get stuff worked on for them.

West Texas. Doesn't matter really, semi-close, aware of the span man. Don't think there is anything in NM, maybe OK. J

Be carefull on the NOS Clevite, they boxed both Mahle and Silvolite pistons with their name on them. It's a toss up. If you're getting 6.2L pistons I'd recommend the Sealed Power pistons, they're the better 6.2 piston. If you're going to overbore the engine to get to 4.055 then I'd opt for...

I'd vote for the 6.2 heads simply because they're not 240k miles heads. Totally understand the taking a look and see kind of thing though. No problem on the information.

I had a guy offer me a running, no rust M1009 Blazer for 1k, in great (for a CUCV) shape. They're just too plain for anything really.. I declined

Definitive answer: If it has the date stamped on the flange behind cylinder #8 in the format of XX-XX-XX it's a "Red" block, otherwise refer to the date code stamped (that doesn't resemble, look like, appear, approximate, coincide a date code). J

4.055 is stock 6.5 bore, fyi. How do you know the '599 is a 6.2? Better check, most 599's were 6.5 bore anyways, only very few were 6.2's. If you have a friend who works at Silvolite and they sell you a Silvolite piston for a 6.2 or 6.5, they're not your friend. I'm saying they're junk...

Truth be known you could have left the heads on the 6.2 and bolted all your stuff on the engine. The later 6.2's (which you have as evident with the oil feed hole) will have the later design 567 cylinder heads. Watch this.. Go look at the casting number on your cylinder heads, it will end in...

Alright folks. I'm picky about how things get machined as far as iron for my 6.5 Diesel engines. I need a machine shop that's experienced in working with the GM 6.2 and 6.5 Diesel cylinder heads. I need a shop that doesn't just mill heads with the precups installed. I also need a shop...