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I did the other day. I'm sure one of the moderators sent him a PM to respond to. at least the good think is he's not posting actual spam!!

I think we have a pattern here. BOT ALERT!!

Yuppers, that valve open will also fill the charcoal canister with raw gas too. with a full tank the valve open and the engine drawing a vacuum on the tank sucking fuel through the canister.

And if you want some lesser expensive tires and have a local shop install them. take a look at this site. this is where I bought the set for my black truck. I picked up a set of blackhawk 245's from them and paid right at 400 for all 4 shipped to me. https://www.tires-easy.com/

They show different for me, maybe the site glitched. don't forget the 245's middle of the road size might work too!

The compare visualizer also will give you speedo calculations for how far off the speedo will be.

If you scroll further down you can also compare by tire diameter using the 285's they show 32.8" diameter. here is a list of 32" variants for a 16" wheel

Try out this site for sizing and comparing tires. I have used it multiple times over the years. https://tiresize.com/calculator/

I have a set similar to those wheels that I got with the black truck just laying in the back yard. I think for my next set of tires for the brown truck I may use them and get some chevy caps for them. then do away with the aluminum wheels. the aluminum ones I have on it are like the ones...

That power wagon would go good with a 6.5td installed! 😉

I would also check the collapsed and extended heights between the two. last thing you want is the new ones to be bottoming out one way or the other. I'm sure they just changed the design and it got a new part number

I found something interesting. and I think you mentioned this too. a ground loop that might need to be removed. https://www.tahoeyukonforum.com/threads/whining-noise-in-the-radio.3788/ https://www.epanorama.net/documents/groundloop/

Oh and btw, on the pic I posted, right above the RCA jacks, that looks like a noise filter. if the power wires are running though it, it might be bad or if it's one of those (I forget the name) that has a small circuit with a micro transformer / choke coil. that might be the issue. you pulled...

You shouldn't have to cut into the factory harness. Here is the pic you posted of the harness adapter. I believe the connector I circled is the power and ground for the aftermarket radio and the bigger grey connector plugs into the factory harness. you can splice into this that I circled...

Ok, first make sure your batteries are good and charged. connect your scanner and go into where you can read live data, find the RPM value then crank. see if the ECM is picking up an RPM signal. we need to determine if this is a fuel or sensor/wiring related issue. you should see up...

I would start it up and run it up and down the road staying near your house so you can still "limp" it back home and see if the trans shifts through all the gears now or stalls out. grounds are the #1 cause of problems.

So there is no codes and the trans is stuck in 2nd? what kind of scanner are you using, it might not be able to read trans codes.

the clear line goes on the IP to the steel return pipe. there is about a 6" section of 1/4" hose in an upside down U shape right in front of the IP. replace that hose with clear tubing. you can get it at any hardware store and does not need to be fuel rated. we have used that stuff and it...

On a DS4 IP the inlet where the rubber hose supplies fuel, there is a screen under the large nut. in most cases the FFM filter will catch all of that from getting into the IP. for your sock on the pickup tube, most of us just eliminate it completely and splice in a inline filter just in...

This whine only started when you installed the aftermarket stereo? if so, I bet it's something to do with the voltage going into the stereo. the adapter you have iirc is can bus and provides a keyed power source to the stereo. you might need to try installing an inline one-way diode in the...