C&C's come with a rear tank that fits up where a spare tire would go I would think. I would think it would fit other trucks. Its 18 gallon I think?? Front 22, rear 18 IIRC.
Have you tried the 2500 RPM Test? Engine must be SUPER HOT per HEATH, so after a 20 minute run, slowly bring RPM to 2500, and slowly back to idle. About 10 times. See if any patterns or problems or lack of smoothness...
I know you're aware of the test Kenny, just posted for other readers and...
My Diamond Eye is on its 2nd SALTY ASS New England winter without a hint of rust. Just use SS clamps, as the stockers are rusted.
I painted the system high temp grille paint black before install.
Next time your all wamed up (heat SOAKED) At Idle revv it up to 2500 slowly, and then slowly bring it back to idle.
Do this about 5 times or so, and see if you loose smoothness at any rpm range(s).
Good IP generic health test.
I had a valve let go some how and got crunched a few times on cylinder 7 and then out the exhaust it went leaving no compression in that cylinder.
It smoked like a champ, and you could make out the 'squifffffffffft' sound everytime that cylinder tried to compress.
The truck responds much nicer of the road. It drives smooth and stable (well, as stable as a diesel can). The quality of the engine sound is just "better" if that makes any sense. Throttle respond is a touch "livelier" also. I would bet the constant 8-10 psi is in no small part responsible for...
You may notice slight lag with this setup, but at midrange to upper range RPM I would think you'll be within effecient ranges of both turbos for a real sweet spot. Should pull strong once the lag is cleared.
If you are going to make blanket statements about 4.10 gears and RPM range, please include tire-size also, or else it has no value. :)
2200 RPM seems peak torque I agree, but its more like 65mph since I upsized to 235/85r16's. Seems like the engine works least, to run strong and smooth.
Be careful on multiple cycles of glow plugs. Sometimes after the first long cycle, it doesn't do the full cycle. At least on OBD2 I've noticed. Probably compeltely different obd1 though.
Having different boost levels would put some uneven pressure on the crank, but the fuel table isn't based on boost, its based on throttle position, so both halves would be getting the same fuel level, so I'd think the pressure would be close. The boost guarantees it to completely burn, and...
Try unplugging the CTS to give PCM Max glow time prior to start (makes puter think its -40 out)
Removing intake hose and blowing hot air via heat gun, or hair dryer for a few minutes (longer betteR) to pre-heat the intake to aid in cold starting to see if conditions change.
Any major smoke...
I really like having that bowl. Anything heavier than diesel, (water, rust, etc) will catch at the bottom there and drain out, without filling up the element.