The retainer in my opinion is only needed when you remove the oil pump drive so the oil pump shaft wont lift and fall into the oil pan or get lodged someplace where it should not be.
You could try using some heavy grease on the end of the shaft before you insert it into the oil pump drive...
Looks like the hex is indeed worn.New sealed power shafts are available from
Rockauto.You’ll also need the nylon retainer that clips upon the oil pump.It prevents the shaft from being pulled upwards when removing the oil pump drive or vacuum pump units on older 6.2 engines.
Do you have a small gap under the oil pump drive?I was thinking you could use one of those cv axle puller tools that’s shaped like a C that guys use to pull stubborn cv axles.Thread on the slide hammer and it might do the job your looking for.
EDIT:Looks like you already have it out…lol.I was...
This evening I installed the dust seal upon the steering knuckle.I used a old 6.2 piston I had laying around to ensure the seal was driven home all the way.A new kugel brand wheel bearing is in place with dorman flange bolts.I also picked up a set of acdelco advantage brake pads.If all goes well...
Today I picked up a Napa gold 6441 air filter to go along with a couple red silicone elbows I got from Amazon.I’m still using the K47 in my 96 gmc truck.I picked up a plastic 5/8 barb fitting from Napa and used a hollow punch to create the hole I needed in the silicone elbow.I think it looks...
Right now the bolts are somewhat tight and when I attempt to move the control arm up and down the bushings remain stationary with a smooth movement of the control arm.I greased the bushings on the outside before pushing them into position.They went into place pretty easily.You do have to reuse...
I have the passenger side half completed to some degree on my 96 Chevy truck.Heres how it looks with the red prothane control arm bushings in place.It does have a new eccentric bolt kit in place too.
Both sides will get new cv axles as well along with tie rods,pitman arm,etc.Still waiting on...
It has been done before on a mid or early 90s K1500 with 305 or 350 that belongs to someone my father knows.Seems there is enough room to just install a straight up and down filter.
If my engines start to leak from those adapters and cause grief I’ll just go with the straight up and down filter.Like was stated earlier it’s less leakage points to worry about in the long run.
You’d need to find that threaded adapter piece that threads into the block.Then you’ll be good to go.The older Chevy 350 engines used the same oil filter.
I have seen these trucks with the oil filter adapter removed altogether and just went with a straight up and down filter like what’s found on 2wd gmt400 trucks.A guy my father knows has this sort of thing done on his gmt400 truck with a 305 TBI engine.His is also a K1500.
Today I took apart the front suspension on the 96 Chevy.And I have to say without these extractor sockets I would have never got those wheel bearing bolts out.They were in very bad shape.I have new dorman replacements going in when I reassemble everything.This socket set is worth its weight in gold.
A few days ago I picked up a few front end parts from Amazon for my 96 Chevy truck with the 6.5 goodwrench.Basically it’s a idler arm,idler bracket ,pitman,all tie rods and stabilizer links.I have new Delphi ball joints and two kugel brand wheel bearings.All the front end parts have grease...
Yesterday I took my first voyage in my 96 gmc truck with the 6.2/DS4 since using the ford diesel Sparta brand lift pump and diesel rx fuel pressure regulator.I put maybe 60-70 kilometres on the truck and the fuel pressure was perfect under load.The Sparta pump puts out 43psi so that’s the reason...
I usually slit some heater hose and put it on those cooler lines and zip tie them afterwards just to be sure nothing chafes through.I havent had any issue doing it that way.