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The turbo header is done until it’s time to paint. I added more weld to all of the seams, which isn’t as pretty, but that allowed me to safely clean up the inside of all of the tube mergers. I used carbide burrs to clean everything up. I also added bungs for the pyro and drive pressure gauges.

Last night I swapped the pulleys on the AD244 alternators to the correct pulleys for 88-95 so my tach will read correctly. I measured for a belt once those were on and found a cheap 119.5” belt on eBay I’m going to start with.

Definitely possible, but it still wigs me out getting something inside the lines. It would look very nice though indeed.

I should share one more thing I did this weekend since I think it’s going to be best for me to keep the thread up to date as I make progress and then do a catch-up post on the engine build portion later. I didn’t want to put crappy looking injection lines on my freshly painted engine and I...

Thanks, Chris! That's a generous offer......well the accommodations part..........not so sure about the slave labor part 😉

It will connect to that V-band there in the middle. I should be working on the driver side header and new crossover pipe soon.

That’s a good suggestion! Thanks for that and the compliment.

Also, I found out the hard way that Dorman hinge bushings won’t stand up to this tool - the force eventually breaks the cheap bushings apart. I’m going to be putting Cunningham Machine bushings in it this time.

It doesn’t move the striker, so it is using the leverage applied to the tool to manipulate the surface that the hinges are bolted to on the door.

After the fuel system I started on the next mod: a new turbo header. I was originally going to rework the one I made years ago so it had a divided T4 flange, but I decided to make a new one since the old one is getting rusty. I also figured I could improve on the old design. I decided to make...

Yesterday I got the fuel system all reattached. I hooked up the lines by the engine, but didn’t mount them yet because I need to make sure everything clears once I start putting sheet metal on. I made the fuel filter mounting bracket a couple days ago and that is also raw in case I need to...

I know, I think the same thing when I put in extra effort to make a part look nice: “Will I be ok with this looking like poop again someday?” “Do I need to get another truck so I won’t drive this one in the winter?” or “I hope this paint is good enough to keep this thing looking good after I...

Thanks, I’ll check this out!

Yup. That’s what I’m doing with this truck.

They make compressors that are a newer scroll style, but with the R4 form factor. That’s what I had in the truck before and it performed fine. I can’t speak to longevity though.

I was lucky and found a 3500HD with dual alternators at the junkyard and robbed the bracket from that truck. After I got mine home and saw the part number I did a search and found that someone is already making repops of them...

Man, I wish I hadn’t let this thread get so far behind, because I have so much to post to catch this up and I really don’t want to at this point. I promise I will though. Here’s current state as of today.

This one expires 8/29. 309839136253246176

I’m way behind on updates. I’ll be making some posts over the next couple days to get this updated. For now I’ll share that I painted all of the bolts on the frame (except the upper control arm bolts since those will get wrenched on during the alignment) with one coat of KBS Rust Seal and then a...

I got my 70 C10 in 94. It was from Alabama - not rust-free, but not nearly as rusty as the trucks around here. I was told it was originally a 6 cylinder truck that never had the oil changed, so a 64 283 was installed in its place and that’s what was in the truck when I bought it. The 283 started...