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After all that it would probly just be worth it to install a BlueHeat unit.

Mine made it to 214,000 before blowing up.

Anything to look out for? New to these trucks and diesel trucks in general. Any help you can render will be greatly appreciated! BTW I'm posting this for a friend.

The "Texas Truck Guy" or whatever his name was... not a very friendly guy but he was getting around 300 RWHP with just diesel out of a mechanical 6.5 and a Holset turbo. I think the Marine DB-2 with enough air will EASILY get 250 RWHP.

Till he puts a Smarty Jr. on it and burns circles around you all day! :mad2::mad2::mad2: (I'm assuming this 03 Ram is a Cummins)

I've got a 8V92T right in front of me and I have no idea what on earth you are talking about. It has a roots blower in the Vee that is fed by a giant turbo suspended over the engine.

And copper/brass is more efficient that aluminum I'm pretty sure, its just more expensive so no one makes them anymore. 93 was the last year of copper/brass BTW.

Yea, the vid is posted by iamdave!!!

I've heard rumor of Bill having a P-pumped 6.2 that got stolen a long time ago? Is there any truth to this rumor? If so where did this P-Pump come from? When it comes to fuel, I'm wondering if Scania's V-8s that used inline P-pumps are an option.

To be honest I don't think that is too big of a deal... this is an IDI motor, and with all the 6.5's we have running around up here they all look like that starting up on a cold day. With 4 plugs the truck WILL NOT START at 19, so *maybe* you have one bad plug, but I think its more just like...

Also, why bother modifying the stock filter to the FTB standards when you could buy a simple screw-on style from summit for around 30 bucks that could handle up to half inch hoses? Do you want the WIF light and the heater stuff or were there other reasons?

Ian, I noticed the Balance Flow system available for Hummers (for like 800 bucks!) that is made by heath but distributed by another vendor is on the truck... Everyone (include Bill I think!) says "works well but isn't necessary"... is this true, I have trouble believing that if you have it on...

I think with this system it would be necessary to aftercool, but I also think that by keeping the boost low on the first turbo it would really help keep the IAT down when it got to the ATT, then aftercool it with an ATA like many have done. Also having the wastegate set on a loose control the...

Yea I can see what you are saying, but could the smaller GM-5 keep the lightening fast spool-up still there and then the high-RPM powerhouse of the ATT would kick in? I'm trying to research this but there really isn't a whole lot of info on sequential or compound turbos.

I know that compounding turbos is usually used to just make huge boost pressures, which obviously is not anywhere a 6.5 wants to go, but would it also allow you to operate a turbo inside its efficient parameters and get more PSI/flow? Here is my idea... 6.5 with 18:1 compression ratio...

Well first you don't have a cold air intake, there's nothing cold about that air. Second evenif you were drawing air from a hole in the hood the cooler air does not mean anything to your boost PSI. That is a function of your wastegaste settings, intake restrictions, and exhaust restrictions...

80 bucks for a turbo in good condition sounds like a no brainer to me, no matter what. You can't buy a GM-4 for that.

Well it starts with: 1. Available fuel, DS-4 has a limit short of 100 mm^3 of fuel all maxed out... a CP3 pumped common rail can flow a buttload more fuel into the cylinders. 2. Direct injection, always been more powerful and with common-rail its much more efficient. 3. Ability of the block...

Hows your tuna can?

Maybe if you wanted an LBZ duramax it would be that much!! He's nuts!