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Had a look at their site, no mention what the ratio is on them..... looks similar to the ones that Peninsular was advertising last year. The price is quite steep, but will free up power and reduce internal engine wear. Nice to see the added after-market support for these power-trains....:thumbsup:

nobody has recorded drive pressures yet with this turbo... i am kind of suprised, as it appears to be so popular, and nobody buying it seems to know/care about it...

That is right, he dyno'd just under 300rwhp......still an awesome dyno run and a great build. Our hats are off to anybody that can get the IDI platform to dyno over 275hp at the wheels. At this point in time, we have only seen 4 or 5 confirmed to be at this level of power, whether they be GM or...

This is great, often wondered how guys did this, usually I am trying to figure these complicated things out for so long, the computer logs me out for lack of activity.....damn computer can't smell the rubber burning between my ears...LOL.

It might work, we were thinking that it might over-heat the element and burn-out, much like an element can do in a hot water tank when the water is too low and the element is in the air. Possibly the block filler would dissipate the heat fast enough, not sure. We discussed a lot the height of...

We have two block heaters in our 3500 right now. Are discussing a combination inline coolant heater, and an oil pan heater. This combined with extra long glow cycles should get us by. If not, we will adapt maybe coil heaters into the intake. Where there is a will, there is a way....

We are continually verifying flatness with a straight-edge while making it. Then first, check all the caps are the same height when torqued down. We then place the girdle over the outer studs, check that it does not rock (the bottom front radius of each foot needs to be relieved) by wiggling it...

This is the pics of our second version of the girdle that will be used in the motor with the block cement and ARP main studs.... ......so far we do not have a milling machine so they are all hand made, and we verify straightness and flatness step by step. No rocking on the main caps (checked...

We are just organizing for our first dyno run, would like to have some base #'s so we are able to attain if we are going in the right direction with our current build.

Good job, yours will be an excellent comparison dyno.....be sure to post results. We are all in need of info as to which upgrades are the best for the buck.....

It was from pulling like that Jorge, that we finally decided to put a dually rear-end in our 3500. With Timbrins in it, we eliminated the squat, and feel better in the rear with 4 load range "E's".....:thumbsup:

Looks real good Bruce, many more trouble-free miles to you.....

Yessir, less potential for problems when the screw is turned up (tightened) for more fuel. Just need a mirror to see where you are working.

If you are looking to turn up the fuel in your sig truck, the internals are a little different with regards to the govener shaft. All in all, it is a good video, just an older style pump. We prefer to go from the side cover, but is a little more difficult to access.

Here is a typical GM-X turbo map.....it really starts to lose it at 15psi boost....

LMAO.....:rof: My reply last night was just after a quick look, saw all the tech in it, but never started to go in depth. I have a couple of pumps on the table here now, will deal with them, then will read the whole article. We can then discuss it, and I am sure that others will chime in (bonus...

We purchased a Groove-o-matic, upon suggestion from "6.2 turbo". The actual ring is a copper wire seated into the groove in the deck surface. We left the wire .015" above to hold the fire-ring of the actual head gasket in place. We have used it now with MLS gaskets and Felpro, both...

Good info in there....we were just reading an old thread (GW's) about a system to switch gears via switch instead of the shifter linkage....

Have a look here,http://www.thetruckstop.us/forum/showthread.php?31686-Dyno-Results and be sure to post up your results and dyno sheet. Do you intend to have somebody there with you, to take a video at the same time? Good luck, and have fun....:thumbsup:

As was stated, your block is a 599, the wires on the IP are all needed (other than TPS) for starting and running. The larger pink wire is the shut-off solenoid, and the two green wires are for the high idle (at linkage ) and the cold advance. They are thermostatically controlled by a switch in...