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A while back I read a post by gmctd about how to adjust the kick-on temp of the stock fan clutch. Quote:Remove the RTV glob from the slot - pull the angled section of the bi-metal strip outta the slot, gently straighten the angle, bending to conform to the rest of the coil, leaving a very...

Makes sense to me. The ECT was 90 deg. C and the IAT were I am sure 80+, so looks like we are good. Have put about 150 KMS on it since, and everthing is stellar.

To my everlasting shame we have a van. She loves it though, so I guess that's what counts. I was close to getting a suburban, but the fuel would just kill me. The pump was 500 bucks to my door. So not too bad. Good to hear from you Gerald!

So I did the KOKO off procedure and it didn't do a thing. The idle stayed at 750, and the scanner read the same settings as prior. Any thoughts? FYI, no more surging in reverse, and crisper throttle response. Power is slightly better at WOT. Real test will be if I get an improvement on fuel...

Thanks very much for the advice, and being diligent in replies. I appreciate it!

We got it very close if not exactly. So a simple key on key off scquence. Does doing this while bleeding the air out of the filter count? Or does it have to be deliberate KO KO cycle with nothing esle going on? I have been driving it for 2 days, it runs great, no hesitation or smoke. Good...

Its a brand new scanner from my schools auto shop. It better be accurate for what it costs them.

Thanks, it was fun, I had some experienced help through some of the more tricky parts.

I guess that would be the original parameters in the memory. What do I need to do to get the new parameters? Thanks Mike

Hi Guys, Just put in a rebuilt injection pump from pensacola fuel injection. Have some data here from the Snap on MODIS scanner: Coolant Temp : 92 deg. C. Act Timing : 11.0 Des. Timing: 10.9 TDC offset: -1.14 Am I good as far as timing goes, or do I need to make some adjustments...

That's about it. Your choice. Both reputable, both good prices. But the oil lines don't go into the housing, they go into the block. Just to clarify.

I had the same issues with shifting sloppy between 1-2, it ended up being a poor connection at the PCM plugs, this happening after I installed a high idle switch. I wiggled and tightened the plugs and voila, it was back to normal. No problmes since, that was in dec. of 2008. Just one more quick...

No, the diffs are still 1500, the trans is the same.

You are talking about dropping the front diff to do the seal, I reckon? Yep. It's a real bear to do it while in the truck. It can be done, but it is only 5 bolts, the drivelshafts and 1 plug to remove it. The 1500 diffs a quite a bit lighter than the 2500, so should be a bit easier. The...

You can run that diff oil. The main thing is if you have a posi locker, you need the oil made to maintain you slip clutches. As for the front diff, it is easiest to pull the whole diff out and do the job with it out. On the passenger side with the 4x4 actuator, you need to remove the axle...

I think the majority would say 210 F or 98 C is the limit of what these truck should be subjected too. Mine does the same thing as yours, but never stays at that temp for more than a minute or two, and usually on hills or hard acceleration. I don't see any way of avoiding that even with the...

I think you need a few more than 5 guys to spur on a new product viably. Especially if you can do it for about 15 bucks using off the shelf parts.

I think you have to pull the retard clips, and the orings reside in the fitting on the block, could be mistaken though. Correct me if I am wrong.

Do a little searchin' using the forum search, there's lots here on lift pumps, and preferences. Cheers.

Yep, I would agree. But he is in a remote area, not the easiest place to obtain aftermarket parts. If he is lucky, he could maybe get a shop that will help him out. Our local minute muffler is often cheaper to get stuff made, than order aftermarket, thats not so say everyshop is like that. Worth...