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IIRC, metal flakes in tank could mean worse things than a plugged sock.

Well, it was the starter. Had a friend hold the key in the start position and tapped the starter and away it went. Had it rebuilt for a 100 bones and it works like a charm. Cheers, Mike

Not a bad idea. I am on my way to check right now.:slomo:

Naw, it wasn't me!

Well, had a break through today. After work it wouldn't go, so I got my friend to hold the key in the start position while I gave the starter a tap with a BFH(not really, just like the sound of it):h just a hammer, and it turned over right away, with the result of sparks coming out of the front...

What is it with us and starting/power issues? Must be a southern Manitoba thing!):h A poor battery will cause you problems, but so will poor connections. If you replace a battery, do both right away. Mike

Can anyone tell me or give me a link to finding the ignition switch and maybe explain the difference between the key switch and ignition switch. I certainly don't want to just throw parts at the problem. Thanks for the input guys!

I think he means the one on the starter. The ones in the fuse block are relays, solenoids are heavy duty, relays are light duty, simply put.

Thanks Gerald, that is kinda what I was thinking. I will see how much it is to get rebuilt first before I start fiddling. We shall see what tomorrow brings.:thumbsup:

Please translate NSBU. Not up on all the acronyms.

Good idea. I have played with the selector, but not in neutral. When I mean no crank, I mean nothing happens, no click, nothing. Would the starter do that? I was told it was cranking a bit slower than it sould.

Well, it hasn't left me anywhere yet, but I suspect my ignition switch is gone. Every now and then, I turn the key and cycle glows, and nothing happens. Wait ten minutes or fifeteen, try again and it cranks and starts. Any ideas? Is it the ignition key tumbler, or the ignition switch in the...

That's a tough call because I did it in 2 stages. I would say I bent it about 1/8 longer than stock. It doesn't take much to change the engagement temp.

Sounds good Art! I do believe that you don't want your trans temp to ever go above 200 F or the oil begins to break down and burn, losing it's ability to lubricate. I have posted the towing in OD concern before, and the concensus is if it's holding OD, leave it, if not, drop it down to D.

Regardless of all the other comments about cooling, this mod. works. Just towed again this weekend, travel trailer, with a mild adjustment and it is about perfect. The fan cuts in now at about 95 deg C, right where I want it with not even a hint of overheating. I was convinced I needed a new...

Pics Finally. Wasn't able to take a pic of the straightened tab, but you'll figure it out.

I know, I know! Busy. Patience, I'll get to it yet. Maybe tonight.

In the next day or so I will do the adjustment and take some picks.

I would think bending it more than once in the same spot would increase risk of breakage, I would think that 3/16 is a bit much, 1/8 or slightly less should be perfect.

That is the thing, it kicked on at about 90 C and was on almost constant, so I would go 1/8", should be good. It would shut of, but only for a very short time.