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we started with a set of 1.75 ratio roller rockers, and 4 hyundai tuscon struts... for the rods...

yeah, we spent 3 days this winter in at the machine shop, got our block checked(1986 660 casting, filled to the bottom of water pump holes with cement, no main distortion, or bore distortion from cement,magnafluxed, bored .030") machined/ ceramic coated our pistons( 17:1 compression, machined in...

Both of the nominations are good.... as per usual, we'll vote for who is ready, then re-up for the other guys....we should be ready for another in the spring also....

After 25-27psi, it is a time-bomb, being out of it's map. The drive pressure is at 1:2, or 60 psi. Not a good place to run this turbo. But when considering that up to 20 psi boost, the drive pressure is still well below 1:1.5, for a minor preformance upgrade, it is still a reasonable turbo. For...

fortunately no one on this site or the other site needs to look to you or your brother for full answers or the whole story, because your posts like this one are tiring and disappointing... why dont you share instead of doing this..... i went through all your posts and cumminsfevers as well on...

we run 25-30 psi boost on this motor ( 457 hrs. worth) normal driving we see anywheres from 3-15 psi, with hard throttle runs up to 30psi..... the only difference with the hx 35 was a 12 cm2 non gated housing, and a slip on connection versus the v-band, the measurements were identical on both...

MWE,(map width enhancement) goes both ways on the spectrum, although is more prominent on the top end where there is more drive from the exhaust heat/gases... all it does in simple terms is prolong the effieciency of the turbo in its sweet spot on the map.... and i think it also minimizes turbo...

we are talking 1.5-2mm of difference, not even enough to have to machine the housings to swap stuff around.... we have tried all the configurations of all the versions of H1C used on the dodges, and the WH1C, and a hx-35 off of a Feller/Buncher( industrial 6bt) everything mixed and matched( 17...

i also believe the cranks broke as a result of the extreme drive pressures of the gm-x turbos placing stress on the rotating assembly, due to the high cylinger pressures cuased by the drive pressure....

if it says WH1C on the tag on the compressor, and it is non waste gated, it was swapped from the 12 cm2 which was the only waste gated housing used on the WH1c..... makes it a H1C with the WH1C tag....LOL

are you going to leave the wastegate on the gm-4 tied shut? is that a mock up motor? what do you have planned for the intake plenum?

we have a set of .350" plungers( OEM from stanadyne) and machined rotor here, just need to sit down with the autosol and buff/polish the bores and plungers to hand fit them so they are well within spec... also bought a set of .370" plungers at the same time, tried to have the .450" ones too, but...

can you be a little more specific....?

Looks like a .500" plunger in your rotor......largest factory did was .450", due to the dimensions of the shoe assembly. Now to get it to fill and spill.....massive fuel at low rpms. Hard to tell in your photo, did you enlarge the ports also ?

Sleeveing will be a good place to start, then the ability to get the fuel to them for the fill and have large enough passages through the pump to the lines (spill). The Ford pump has a good tail section, we do a similar mod to have the larger fuel inlet. We are subscribed, not for any voodoo or...

actually the 351cw uses the small exhaust housing like the hy35, 9cm2, and started casting the intercooler elbow right on to the compressor cover, thus eliminating the problematic and leaky extra elbow connection... this turbo (351cw) is the HO for the cummins, instant spool-up, and 1:2 drive...

i believe the one he is talking about is the he351 cw waste gated, but i could be wrong....

IMO using the .290" head and rotor from a 7.3l IP will yield nothing and is a waste of time, it is the same thing other than the cam-ring is turned around and the transfer pump spins the opposite direction.... now using a .310" head and rotor in a 7.3l pump would be an upgrade...

its not the first time you gave us an unrealistic quote, remember the kodiak door handle deal? it was almost double the price for that, and the world does revolve around money, or you would not be in business, it is pretty simple... if people want a deal, they need to look, or buy out of...

actually right now over at DP can have a fluidamper for $349 + free shipping anywhere in the states, up to us here will be $367.00 + $39.00 shipping (with the exchange).... so you guys know where we will be buying ours...:thumbsup: