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Love them, have them on both my 02 extra cab, and 99 suburban

Mine too. Obviously not the smartest guy in the book of 6.5 CK trucks

http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=140377067927&ssPageName=STRK:MEWAX:IT Here too

Show us some pics!

Changed my crossover while engine was out for frame swap. Good thing, the down pipe was pretty rotten.

Anubis, you want some to play with? I'm very close to you ;)

On my list of things to do...

Will a 2000 2wd 4L80 out of a 1ton van swap into a 96 4x4 pickup? Does the 2000 have a stand alone computer? Can I swap the the tail shaft for the transfer case? What else? Thanks PS, both truck and donor have 5.7

Me too!

Ahhh, this brings up memories. I broke the front passenger side glow plug off flush with the block. Tried all the 'tricks' I knew, heat and cool, candle wax, soak with penetrating oils known to man, weld a nut on, weld a bolt on (that didn't stick well because the glow plug was stainless...

My stainless lines are not lined with rubber, rather plastic/teflon, rated to 1000 degrees IIRC. Also, I'm not so sure I'd want nylon sleeved due to the proximity to the manifold. That's why I didn't want rubber as well. It might be OK, I don't know.

some have smaller openings for the radiator, but can be modified with a sawzaw easily enough, and the headlight style matters, as mentioned

A little off topic, but do you have some newer style door latch/handles on the black truck? Tell us more!

I've had more than one rear window come loose and need new urethane sealing. I don't know if it is due to cab flex popping it loose, adhesion failing, or both. The urethane has pulled away from the paint in some cases. (The windshield urethanes claim to be primerless, but I question that...

Doubt anybody is gonna warranty a part like an oil line, but anyway... I wouldn't use a rubber hose, running past where it does. That's why I used the temp rated teflon lined braided stainless. Or you could use the rubber, then do it again down the road.

Just cause it worked doesnt mean it worked well. Too slow to engage IMO. That said, I have a used one on the shelf from a broken diff I'd sell cheap if interested.

Done a bunch, usually have had spare parts doors from wrecks to swipe handles from.

Early (read 88 or so) GMT400 trucks used a ps cooler. I think OEM figured the steel line provided enough cooling.

Unbolt the steering box, rotate sideways so you can get puller on, otherwise, crossmember is in the way. I torched off the balljoint end of the pitman arm as I was replacing all tie rod ends and it was easier to do with the center link in the vise.

Tim (TD) has IIRC, may be in bits and pieces though.