Search results

Nice write-up, and good thinking out of the box on wiring the spring!

I think your're getting ready to get screwed by the stealer!

You can use 2 big square-shanked screwdrivers, or a couple smaller pry bars inserted into the spring, then twist the spring over and slip into place. Requires some forarm strength.

http://www.mastercool.com/media/temp_pressure_chart.pdf http://www.autoacforum.com/speclisting.pdf http://www.ackits.com/aacf/ptchart.cfm

I got them both new/reman for $130.):h We'll see... If the fittings on the accumulator don't budge, gently heat them with a propane torch.

I hope you mean you just used stock brake line lengths and that is the reason you didn't have to double-flare. Agreed, with a good double-flare tool, it's not bad.

^Agreed. If you've got gauges, I'd get a vac pump. Now cheap from Harbor Freight. No guesswork there. I'm not as sharp as I maybe once was on the AC stuff, but IIRC, R134 is a little more finicky due to being a larger molecular size.

I recharged mine last night after a complete evacuation. Held a vacuum. Was nice and cold. After I shut things down, I hear an annoying psssssss. Back seal on the compressor is leaking, so I ordered this from the 'bay...

That's why, in my past life in the bodyshop, I much preferred good used doors vs new OEM on the chevy trucks. Aftermarket doors came with the hinges welded on, but usually fit like crap.

I've had 300k out of 5.7's that have never been touched, plenty at 200k. Intakes aren't as bad of a problem as the 3.4 IMO

That's not factory! Hinges are welded on. Drive the pins out, replace pins and bushings, don't try to take the hinges off.

Here's a thought: when you boil a pan of water, does the pan touch the stove or have an air space between the burner and the pan? (thinking electric stove here guys) So if the PMD is like the burner, it will heat the heat sink faster if touching it, than by convection. The PMD needs to get...

I think you might be confused:rolleyes5: Propane has less btu's than gas, therefore less power. Propane-fueled engines HP are de-rated from their gas counterparts.

Did the same thing to mine on Sunday, works good!

I think you made the right call. Inlaws have a 98 K1500 Sub with the Vortec, I'd take my 99 K2500 with 6.5 anyday. I think the 6.5 is really only for those that have an interest in taking care of their own vehicles. Otherwise go gasser, as others have said.

Restoguy, what'd the rebuild cost you? I've got a 96 4L80 with reverse gone that I'd like to rebuild. Never been into a tranny before...famous last words...

The impact drivers don't have torque settings. If you've soaked them with penetrating fluid, they should let loose. If the tips break, just punch them through and go in the injector hole. On the adapter, HF is good, just about anyplace has them, Lowes, lumbar yard, hardware store, etc...

Ya know, I pretty much like my 99 Sub better than my wife's 05 Escalade Platinum ESV. Seriously.

Here's what I used: 18V 1/4" impact driver (It will take off most tire lugnuts!), 1/4 hex to 3/8 socket adapter, 2 6" extensions, 3/8 Ujoint, then 7/16 socket. 13/16 wrench to hold outer part of GP tool. Remove or push aside your splash sheilds on your inner fender.

Turboman, did the glowplug tool thread all the way up to the cylinder head? Just checking. Wondered if the glowplug hex head dropped out of its machined groove in the tool as you were tightening it up? That could cause the tool itself to bind.