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Not gonna be much help for you locating wires - It's too cold out right now for me to go look at things - BUT - Clean the wire connectors (lugs) with a Dremel tool with a stainless steel brush on it - Grease isn't the problem, corrosion is. You can extend the harness yourself - Not a big deal...

Lack of WTS & SES lights sure seem to point to an electrical problem. ECM-B fuse feeds the ECM & the Lift Pump. The upper yellow fuse it the ECM-B, btw. Does the Lift Pump run? How are you checking the fuses? Just looking at them is sometimes very misleading... An Ohm meter (multi-meter) or...

No problem - Each link should be near the device being fed.

preachermic - PM sent.

Yo dude - Even I screw up occasionally :pat: Even more - if you ask my wife :rolleyes5: Main thing is you got it done and did it yourself :th_CONGRA34: Rock on !

Get a fusable link - They are Very Slow Blow Fuses, and for good reason. At the very low resistance that the glow circuit sees there is quite a kick when you first apply the juice. Also; I get 104 Amps (continuous - not looking at the initial surge) for 8 1 Ohm glow plugs. (.125 Ohms at 13...

Any good heavy gauge flexable wire will suffice. That's why GM uses a strap.

Get the kid to do it - They can do right anything with a computer!

I LOVE IT... Another approach is to take a lug type terminal that fits both wires and just cut the lug off. And, like the man said, get rid of the insulation. A bare connector will give you a much better crimp. I won't comment on the soldering part - Well, just a little... I'm against it. If...

It gets HOT under there! Especially after the engine is turned off...

Remove, clean, and tighten the grounds at the frame near the starter. And be absolutely, positively, sure that the little bracket is firmly attached to the block and starter motor. I'd also be sure that the electrical connections to the starter are tight (disconnect the batts first). I also back...

If you do get it balanced have it set up for your cruising rpm - Not something like 7k! Rods and pistons (with rings) and wrist pins weighing the same is awsome - Been there, loved it. Balance point and length of the rods too... A lot of work, but worth it. Ya need somewhere with a bunch of...

The SSD heatsink is fine. Under the hood it just soaks up heat from the engine while running and after shut down - Pretty much the opposite of what needs to be happening to keep the FSD healthy. Once you get it out of there you have as good a heatsink as any other.

Know a shop, store, guy, whatever, with a fork truck? Get a local wrecker to take the motor to that place and save some $$$.

Google WarpSpeed Performance

Fine business Ian! Looking forward to it... So, what's up with you? Rumor has it that you're leaving Heath for higher education. I'll give you this -- With your attitude, and the care that you've shown Heath's customers, you'll go far in whatever you decide to do. Good Luck to you sir!

Call Heath - Mine was like $120 from them.

GMCTD - I'll try to save you a bit of typing... GM uses a resistor (value unknown by me) to quench the kick back when the relay releases. A diode works great too and can be picked up at Radio Shack for a few cents (well - maybe a buck or two, but only worth a few cents). This will explain it...

Never tried a copper washer - but, the less different metals the better. Dissimilar metals corrode which will loosen the connection. Stainless steel is probably your best bet.

Lead bolts would just twist off first time you tighten them - Lead is very soft. Steel is fine in this application. The idea is to get solid contact between the battery and the connectors - The bolt just keeps them there and shouldn't be conducting electrons about till you attach jumper cables...