A. Google is your friend.
B. Beats me... I would have thought that they are THE knowledge base for their stuff, but seems that their *factory trained* mechanics are mostly parts throwers... So who knows?
Disclaimer --- I'm sure that there are GM mechanics that KNOW how to troubleshoot - If...
Don't sweat THAT... I've been seeing bell bottoms again lately :)
My grandfather used to do the very same thing - But his engine was CLEAN - Just for those way below zero days. His neighbor didn't understand the CLEAN engine bit though and not only burned his car up, but his garage too!
:iagree:
CheckList say's grounds are *OK*... What exactly do you mean:confused:
These *fly by wire* systems are really into solid grounds and electrical connections in general. Sometimes just shaking a bad connection will find a weak point - leave the key on - or you can take a jumper cable...
This doesn't sound like and FSD problem to me.
I believe there's a corroded or loose connection somewhere, or the ignition switch (or it's connector).
Next time it does it leave the key in the on position and starting beating on things (my first lesson as a TV repair apprentice - Really)...
Also closely check the ground wire on the IP.
Also the ground to the fender right at the battery.
You may have a corroded wire... They can corrode under the insulation -- No fun to find, but doable. A corroded wire will feel *funny* when you bend it.
If you have any soldered splices give them...
Fusible links - While they look like wire from the outside they are actually made up of 2 elements that will, by design, melt apart at a specific (well, more or less) current. They are fuses - Hence the name. They are just like regular fuses in that when they fail they are destroyed and must be...
Not claiming to be a transmission expert, but I would think they would be happier with nice clean fluid in them when stored. Logic would be that the seals stay wet and condensation will be less likely to be a problem.
Or maybe a note to GM tech support would answer the question......
I agree 100% Matt... Just saying - Apples to Oranges.
The 500 is probably THE BEST block that GM ever came up with. Too bad it wasn't used in a Diesel application - Or was it? Or could it be?????
Thanks - I got it now.
Try looking for current (Amp scale) instead of Voltage using your method. The higher the current the lower the resistance of the *short*. If the glow plug controller is causing you to always see current pull the Red wire feeding it. It comes directly from the batteries...
??????????
I'm old and know most of the *tricks of the trade* but, I confess, I have no idea what you're typing about. I'm always up for a new trick! :)
Would you please explain?
Thanks!
You don't want any sharp edges or points on the top of a piston. Those points will go red hot and pre-ignite your air/fuel charge. That causes all kinds of bad things to happen.
Makes sense to me - Keep it cool and it should last and last.
We (me & PO) have either been really lucky, or the fact that the engine spends most of it's time at a fast idle may be the reason. That FSD has been a PMD for 9 years that I know of. The Bell Co was the PO before the guy I bought it...
I believe that mine is the original and is still on the IP unless the IP has been changed. The little bolts on it don't appear to ever have seen a wrench up close. Doesn't seem to be too horrible a place for it.
When it croaks the new one won't be there, but only cause it would be way easier to...