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What size are the wires?

I meant I would hate to think you're having that kind of trouble with a Delco OPS. That is THE brand to go with.

Thanks a bunch TD (NOT). I was gonna bet big $$$$$ that there was no way he was getting 7 psi of vacuum :( :) :) <<<< Means Just Joking - Calm down out there :)

Alternators are rated at some current for a few seconds - NOT continuous! Fuses protect the WIRE INSULATION - NOT THE SOURCE!! The fusible link in the charging circuit protects the battery and it's wire. Please, do all the reading that you can on this subject before your truck goes up in a...

mgray; Whose OPS are you using? I hope it's not an A/C Delco, or maybe it's just at the end of it's life.... Stuff does wear out eventually.

^^^^ One of the definitions of insanity ^^^^ While *Find the problem & then fix it* isn't an old idea, it seems to be fairly obscure these days. I can see a kid out in his driveway figuring that it MUST be the most expensive part that's broke, buy and install a new one, and still have the...

A fusable link IS a fuse... The difference is that a fusable link is a slow blow fuse - Very slow blow. Normally a fuse is only there to protect the wire insulation. The only exception that I know of (there may be others) is to protect a battery. Batteries do VERY BAD things when hit with way...

On the controller there should be a Yellow wire to the relay and some big Orange ones. You need the Yellow. Disconnect it. Put the meter on the highest AMP scale that it has and put one meter lead on the Yellow wire and the other on the controller where the Yellow wire came from. I believe that...

Hi Matt, Take an inch or so of your hose and put it in a jar with some Diesel in it. If it's kinda gummy after sitting overnight........

Truer words are hardly ever typed. Throw some salt in, just to get the corrosion going really good, and your electrical system bites the dust - Or is that bites the rust? These trucks (>'93) are known as *FlyByWire*. The ECM is monitoring some fairly robust signals and some at really small...

Somewhere in the vast electron highways and byways of you truck's electrical system there's a capacitor charging up. Once charged they're happy and don't draw anymore current. I can't imagine how that would pull your battery down to nothing. Either the batteries are bad, or one is bad and...

I think you're confusing 2 parts - - NAPA confuses the issue a bit more... The *TunaCan* isn't an EGR, it's a CDR (Crankcase Depression Regulator), but NAPA calls it a PCV. The EGR is a whole different thing (and you don't want one anyway - Even if you need one).

Is this better? More boost at level cruise = Less MPG The stock vac system drops boost to near zip when cruising, but how much difference would one see with like 5 psi boost at cruise? Or is the diff actually insignificant??

It's always something - Isn't it? Like everything else, I guess, a question of balance - And what you want out of the system. I try for the best fuel economy I can get. But then again my bucket truck just moves from place to place at a leisurely pace. Others want to get from Point A to Point B...

Therefore : More boost = Less MPG... I guess I over simplified.

When the exhaust overcomes the spring the boost is dumped. The tighter the spring the more exhaust pressure is developed before the wastegate opens. The spring is holding the wastegate closed, btw. It doesn't take much movement of the wastegate to dump boost. More boost = Less MPG.

You can figure F or S engine just by reading the VIN or looking at the intake manifold. The EGR valve looks kind like a flying saucer that landed on top of your intake. On the VIN it's the 8th figure of that long number/letter combo. The CDR (Crankcase Depression Regulator) is like a gasser's...

OR on a bicycle :)

WOW - Great find :drool5: Hope it get's you going - I'm pulling for ya!

Excellent point! Automotive cables are flexable (for good reason) - A cable that's corroded under the insulation will feel *crunchy* when you flex it. Usually near a terminal point.