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Yep, you did good. You are much better off with an optimiser block than you were with the GM cast 506 block.

The 1995 engine is basically identical to the 1990. Same block, head, pistons, etc etc. But the 95 should have the much more desirable P7100 injection pump on it, if memory serves me right. The 95 is also intercooled, where the 90 isn't, so that's a plus....provided you can physically fit an...

Oh yea, a lot of difference. The optimiser is a much better casting/engine than the GM cast engine. Others can/will chime in with what the particular differences are.

Might as well do glow plugs while you are there. The passanger side ones wll be easy to get to while the turbo and down pipe out of the way.

How does it run right after it finally starts? Fairly smooth/normal or does it spit and sputter for a few seconds? What does the smoke look like when it finally starts? Is it a lot of smoke, what color is it? Does this starting problem happen every time you try to start the truck or only after...

Great news. Glad it was a semi easy fix.

I agree..... put a stock chip back in it and see what happens to the smoke. If it fixes the problem, you know something went wacky with the perf chip. If it still smokes crazy, we can go a different direction. Easy and quick thing to change and you won't even get dirty in the process.

You could also plug it in overnight and try to start it again tomorrow. That will, at least, give it a better chance of starting without the glows working properly. If it does start that way, you have narrowed the problem to the glow system rather than the IP/ECM/fuel system problems.

This all sounds pretty normal to me. The pressure staying in the hose after the truck sits for a few hours is actually a good sign in my opinion. If it's holding pressure in the system after it sits, that tells me there isn't a leak anywhere.... I could be wrong, but that is my gut feeling. Both...

It's almost definately going to change now that your timing chain is tight again. I would check/reset it again anyway just so you know it's right. I bet it's going to feel like a different truck when you're done..... with the timing being on the money and the ATT.

That's more of an opinion type question rather than a cut and dried answer. The cummins swap will give you less headaches to worry about as opposed to the 6.5 (no pmd to worry about, no turbomaster, no more chips to get more power, etc.) and it will last 350,000 plus miles if it is taken care...

All B-series cummins have the turbo on the passanger side and inj pump on the driver's side. If the intake says dodge ram on it then it's a non-intercooled model, so 89-91. There should be a rectangular metal tag on the front driver side corner of the engine, just in front of the injection pump...

And even with all the money you've spent in maintenance, repairs, and upgrades to your GMC, I bet you are still a long way below what a similarly equipped new truck would cost you. Plus you've had the "joy" of doing 90% of the work yourself, so you know how it was done and more importantly that...

I think you'll be alright. I mean, you had a really crappy trip and HAD to spent a lot of money on the truck to get it home. But, on the other hand, you have now had your hands in almost every area of the truck and know what you're working with there. I really don't forsee many problems for you...

Just got back from the trip. 1,240 miles round trip from Savannah, GA to Louisville, KY and back pulling a 22' car trailer loaded with a 2002 Chrysler mini van. Everything went absolutely awesome, no issues at all. Temp guage pointed at 210 twice for about 15 seconds each time during the...

That's actually not a bad idea......

That "hill decent" feature of locking the TCC is probably the best thing about it. I used that quite a bit on this trip I just did. It is well worth the time and effort it takes to do the mod. Almost like having a jake brake :D

Short answer, no. It does take a little getting use to if you use it a lot. It takes some trial and error to get use to the right rpm range in which to lock the converter, lock it to low and you lug the engine, lock it too high and you lose some of the benifit of locking it in the first...

Here is a link to "how to do" this mod. http://blog.heathdiesel.com/2005/11/manual-operation-of-torque-converter.html Yes, that drop in rpm's is the converter UN-locking. Having the switch so you can keep it locked is a great, and really easy, mod. Keeping the converter locked while you're...

A toggle switch in the dash so I can lock up the torque converter when I want to keep it locked.