Search results

Thought more and more about it - decided you guys are right and decided against getting them turned. I don't know where I got that original $400-$500 for a salvage axle from... turns out they are in the $700 - $900 range. Plus the proportioning valve, plus the new brake line to the other side...

Thank you. My goal tomorrow is to take a run to NAPA... see what they have, just for good measure... then see about getting my current ones turned -- maybe the cracks are not as bad as I'm thinking??? Then make a decision. Is some cracking to be expected? I guess what I'm getting at is...

Good point about weight. It doesn't address the quality of the metal, but at least it's something. If there's an obvious weight difference I will definitely pass on Them.

Yes, sorry, I meant get the "drum" turned. I'll let the disc-axle-swap-thing settle for now. Although, I would like to know (if for nothing else than knowledge) why that wouldn't work. Now, I can guarantee that I know less about this than you guys, but why would the tranny computer care? I...

I think they are original. Part number 15622390 is stamped on them. That pricing at AZ is pretty cheap! I'll check the local NAPA on Monday to compare (hopefully they have something made in the USA). I can't ways do it, but I try to buy USA when I can. However, at that point I think I'm...

Thanks! I did have a heck of a time getting the wheel off the drum. I kicked the tire tell my foot was sore. Then I tried letting the tire back onto the ground (w/o the nuts on) to see if it would crack. Finally, I used the back side of my ax (I was almost ready to hit it with the blade of...

Aha! The light bulb went on! I get it, now. In the first picture I posted, the flange (about 7" diameter, give or take) that the studs are pressed into is SEPARATE from the actual drum. So, the drum and the hub are supposed to come apart from each other. I mistakenly thought that that 7"...

No, unfortunately. But, if you look at where the axle cap (about 3/8" thick) is bolted onto... That cylinder that sticks out of the wheel is part of the drum. EDIT: Originally typed "hub" above - changed it to "drum". Oh, to maybe better explain (or maybe not!)... The drum looks like a men's...

From the picture above (inside of drum), does there look like there is enough meat to have them turned? I crudely measured the wall thickness at .35" and there doesn't really seem to be any type of "groove" worn into the drum from the pads.

Leroy, yes I do have the brake spring removal tool. Gone are the days of combining a screw driver and various needle nose pliers!

The wheel studs are pressed into the drum (which you can see in the picture above of the drum's backside). The axle cap cover gets bolted onto the drum. The axle cap covers the retaining nut. The retaining nut holds the drum on to the axle housing. I just went outside and took this: So...

I'm definitely replacing the rear wheel cylinders (both). What do you think about the rest? Is is recommended to replace springs, shoes and drum? The truck has about 120K on it, I've owned it for 9 years and nothing has been changed in the 9 years I've owned it. Can you get "loaded"...

Thanks for the reassurance, guys! The whole reason I took it off was that I've got some zerk fittings (on the wheel cylinders) that are either not cooperating (even with penetrating fluid) or broken off. So, I need to replace those wheel cylinders sometime soon and I just wanted to get a...

I popped the drum off to take a look at things. I don't have the special retaining nut tool so I tightened it back up in a similar fashion to the way I do it on trailers - "by feel". For this nut, I stuck a small Torx screwdriver in one of the "holes" of the nut and used that to rotate the nut...

Chestatee - good, glad to see I'm not steering this thread away from your initial intent. Your thread caught my attention as it seems you and I are after the same thing (especially if you go with the 18:1). I've been trying to research WG vs Non WG turbos without much luck. Is one inherently...

Thanks for helping out with these questions, Slim. And, please don't take any of my questions to mean I'm not aware of the many people who are successfully using the ATT. Nor would I want you to think I don't appreciate the time and effort you've put into developing this. Nothing could be...

Thanks for the help, Buddy. Can you expand on that statement, please? I realize PSI isn't everything, but what if I could find a turbo that could flow higher PSI's and good flow (with a built, 18:1). I thought (admittedly without knowing a whole bunch) that the Powerflow did that...

Here's another kit (I think it's a bolt-in kit, anyway): schoolcraftpowertrain.com/index_files/PowerFlowTurbocharger. Non site vendor hotlink disabled It's more expensive than the ATT. Personally, I'm waivering back and forth between the ATT and the Schoolcraft. Does anyone happen to have...

Yes, the adapter goes directly onto the block, in place of the 4x4 adapter. The remote filter mount can be mounted anywhere you want - even up in the engine bay if you'd like. I did all this without a lift, by the way - plenty of room.

Mike, here's how I moved the oil filter (driveshaft doesn't have to be moved - although that would be the least expensive route for you). At a bare minimum, maybe it'll give you some ideas. In the thread are the part numbers I used (from Summit). These may have changed, though, as I did this...