the 6.5 is probably a 350k mile rebuild. could be longer or shorter-but its a good engine. keep in mind no engine is perfect. from powerstrokes to cummins, they all have their faults and horrendous failures. they are no different than gassers, they will fail depending largely on how good a...
yes it is true that coolant moving too fast cannot soak the heat from the metal, but you are not in 110 degree desert heat. being so cold outside makes the heat transfer not so critical- in summer you would need every bit of efficiency to cool the engine.
I find it all depends on condition--have got steals from junkyards on almost new parts put on a vehicle that then was wrecked. anyone remember 20 years ago when junkyards were part stores??? there were no autozones, oreilly's, etc. I prefer the ol small town part store here-I know them by...
proper voltage but not pass load test is bad internal connection to post. that is why it is important to load test the terminals that are used. I have had side post go bad but top post ok. have you done the battery post modification? http://www.thetruckstop.us/forum/showthread.php?t=540 ...
battery cables good (remove boots from cable-battery connection). sounds like a bendix/solenoid issue- have someone get under truck by starter to hear if the starter is where clicking is. neutral clutch start is simply a safety switch, could bypass easily.
double grounds to frame and engine, will be adding one to firewall and IP. all other grounds cleaned this year. I definitely believe the 2 stroke caused an issue-just not the main issue. I monitored the slow come down on pulse width as a few tanks of fuel went through it-while changing nothing...
Been coding 36, injection pulse width error(long). running 228 to 232ms. switched from 2 cycle to Heaths recommended non-detergent 30weight motor oil. reduced time to 2.23. ran gmtdscan today, with homemade remote pmd, took snapshots. at 600 rpm 2.22pulse ran jumper cable bat to pump, reduced...
I use gmtdscan, leave laptop in truck hooked up if I got problems, One good thing is you got a whole lot of possible issues taken care of. any loose or bad grounds that could cause a surge or spike to ecm?
what atf you using? modern atf have a laundry list of additives in them that may not burn so good. unless its a very basic type you might look into switching to what Heath uses-a non-detergent basic 30 weight motor oil or two-cycle oil. I had optic issues with atf and 2cycle, its clearing since...
I believe the gvwr on my 94 1 ton is 14 klbs with 2200 lbs in bed.. any truck can pull more than rating, buddy of mine found out doing that made axle seals leak, then no brakey until car in font of him helped him to stop. Love my 5ver, went light(5700 lbs) to have plenty of power to spare.
I agree, if it is ok with key and not remote, sounds like an electrical problem with the remote system. load test batteries- and good tight. clean connections all around. got a new one for 130(smaller auto parts store) couple months ago.
geeze, was truck in combat-had not heard that many issues all at once in a while. X2 on proper torque. for a 94 its 32 ft lbs, as far as breaking the manifold-make sure you use the right torque sequence(I usually use a 10lb incremental sequence unless otherwise stated) and maybe use a washer to...
Just run of the mill vacuum hose you can get anywhere. There is quite a bit of info on how to build your own homemade TM for less than $20. bought one from Bill, then had to make a second due to budget issues-actually pretty easy with pics posted here.
Did mine in 102, I save the starter for freezing weather. fitting fell apart trying to push plastic tabs in. no saving the crossover. lucky I was doing the upgrade-was trying to salvage all the old parts though :frown5:
go to any parts store, smaller, local ones are better, they should have the line. I think its 1/8, but take one to them and get the total footage needed. cut to length and your done. I do not think any pre-cut to fit are available, its just generic vacuum hose.