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I'm not sure I could point out any difference with a/c or defroster running. The bad thing (really a good thing) is that a tank last so much longer now, it averages out the mornings with defrost and the afternoons with a/c running over a tank. We've been cooler this summer and haven't seen...

Alright fellas, we finally have the '99 6.5L Suburban (see signature) running and driving. But the indicated speed (speedometer) is about 1/2 of what it should be. We have the ecm and tranny out of a '96 3/4 ton 6.5L pickup. The transfer case came from a '98 3/4 ton 4L80E (not sure if...

I agree totally with that last line! I would never dream of re-using head bolts. But then, I've never re-used an engine. At 232k miles the original started to use coolant. I surely wasn't going to invest another dime in repair parts or labor for old castings (heads/block). I had more in a...

I confirm diesel65 has the correct p/n. However, if you really think you want to match orifice size... it is 11/64" (.203") diameter orifice to the rear supply AND return. I measured mine before install. As for wether or not we need them? I have yet to see someone chime in on the heater...

I'm in general agreement with the theory of "no restrictions" should work or at least not cause your "lack of heat" problem. I suspect the restrictions in the QD and the rear heat Tee's is to limit flow and thus peak temps. You certainly don't need 185 deg F to make a heater work comfortably...

One cannot forget to check the basics... is it possible that a heater tube got pinched during engine swap or other activity? Might be worth tracking the hoses (kinked?) and tubelines (smashed?) from front to back, just to rule out a possible restricition? I'd also take apart the tees to make...

I almost answered never, but had to submit "1". Once in 335,000 miles on my '95. I was running stock and under warranty at the time. Headed back from the Knoxville Nationals and kept setting a code for coolant temp if I recall correctly. Turned out to be a bad connection at the pcm...

I have one if you really want to put one on yours. Removed mine for ATT's.

Other = 3.5"... I answered "other" as both of our 6.5L's are modified. They are stock from head to turbo inlet, from there each have an A-Team Turbos, Kennedy Diesel 3" mandrel bent downpipe, 3.5" mandrel bent tailpipe, noise attenuating cat's and see thru muffler. The '95 sounds alot like...

Great Videos VegOut! Your assistant has a bit of a shakey hand at speed though, lol!!! Regarding the '95 GMC in my signature... I'm about another 4k miles since post #702, which is about 15k miles on ATT, 331k miles on truck odometer. I'm still at 17.1 mpg since ATT and Kennedy Fuel...

I also confirmed the tee's have a 13/64" (.203") diameter orifice to restrict flow "to" and "from" the rear heater. I guess someone should put this information in the library somewhere???

Don't let any facts get you (me) confused... if it doesn't act "broken," don't fix it! I suspect the "more" restricted flow for the rear heat may be more important for severe cold weather warm ups? Our project Suburban has fuel mizer pre-cups so it will definitely make heat at idle. So, if...

I confirmed with gm parts book that the supply and return "tee" fittings are identical p/n's. Thus, the orifice part of the "tee" is at position #3 and #6 restricting flow to and from the rear heater. I forgot to measure the size of the orifice in the plastic tee. However, the orifice in...

If the supply and return "tee" fittings are intended to be identical, then the orifice would have to be in #3 and #6. What we purchased would make the "tee" fittings the same. I'll have to check with the parts man to revisit what the parts book calls for by p/n.

Suburban Rear Heater Hose Assembly? We are finally putting together our Suburban fuel economy experiment and we're trying to plumb up the rear heater (and front heater) hoses. Did anyone ever settle this thread with a gm service schematic? We have a '97-2000 vintage like stuff. The Suburban...

Well, you can keep your cables. I wouldn't have another in my garage if I didn't have to. My '02 Jetta TDI would go to idle if you held the brake and throttle for more than a couple seconds. I found that out while riding the brake and spooling things up to make a quick left hand turn...

You could see some b4 and after photos in my albumn. The ATT albumn is obviously the "after" as I had to do the chip delete of ejr and wastgate, to install ATT. I'm happy to be rid of the vacumm pump, lines and valves. I did as buddy suggests, replaced with non-egr upper intake. Be carefull...

I had a '93 6.2 mechanical pump and more recently a 5.7 gaser with a cable... personally, I wouldn't take either if given a choice! Pedal effort sucks compared to the electronic 6.5. If you haven't felt the pedal in one of those mechanical rides, you may want to think about it, and maybe...

Oh yeah, thank you all! Glad you find it interesting and useful.

No scan tool, but I had it timed at gm store to the DSG specs with the cam phaser kit. Injectors most likely next thing to replace for testing purposes. You seem suprised they live this long, or is it you think one is crazy to attempt that many miles, lol? As for the air filter, I've got...