Thanks for the write-up BJ. I know you put a lot of thought into it. We all have opinions and different experiences, That is what this place is for, is to share those. I value your opinion and admire your craftsmanship. Thanks for what you give to this place.
Shipping would be very spendy[$300+] I'm not positive at this point if I really have a "extra". I'm not shure if i'm junking the latest 93 or not. I need to have at least one spare in case one takes a dump.
Darn!!! there goes a possible sale for me:mad2::D Great find:thumbsup:
Handshakers interfere with my coffee drinking while I drive but they keep falling in my lap lately:rolleyes5:
Bosch USED to make the water pumps for GM untill the first stage of bankruptcy. Bosch jumped off the crashing GM wagon. More than likely the water pumps came from China after that. On all the 95 and older trucks that I have put the HO water pumps on, I had to grind out the lower A/C- vac pump...
The lugnuts from the steel wheels will work if they have the external threads to hold the center caps on. The old style center caps won't work unless you use the lug caps from the newer style wheels.
No thread sealer. Torque spec is 65 ft. lbs. There should be no fuel get to the threads if the surfaces are lapped close enough. I would imagine that the return fuel does somewhat cool the nozzle but the fuel is really not all that cool after being pumped to a high pressure.
There is no actual seal. It is metal on metal. The surfaces are ground "flat". "Flat" is a relative term. "flat" could be + or - .05 or .005. The surfaces distort over time especially with all the heat cycling. The sanding them trues the surface enough to make a seal again.
Maybe I missed it early on in this thread but, what are you running for a water pump? You have something major wrong that a new radiator won't keep it from overheating. Maybe a 6.2 v-belt pump? or missing vanes on the impeller?
My 92 that I'm doing all my heavy towing with is all stock[clutch...
You can replace ALL of the electrical components in a 4l60e or a 4l80e for around $135 See my thread in this section of the forum on installing the electrical kit. There is a link to the vendor that I bought the kit from.
The pop tester can't produce the pressure and volume that the ip does on a running engine. The pop tester only goes to the pop pressure. The ip can be running 4000 psi or more.
I use 1000 grit wet or dry sandpaper on a piece of glass with diesel fuel for lube.
For $500 or maybe even less it could become YOUR project with all of the rest of my 70's parts.:D I really don't have much desire to finish it and I need the space desperately:agreed:
Not much to see but I'll get some pics. It was a project I started 18 years ago and never finished. It has: new fenders,new doors,new cab corners, new rocker panels, new inner rockers, new cab supports, and new floors. Many many hours cutting and welding in all the new parts. When trying to line...