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Length isn't gonna matter for my swap. If I get a ranger o/d unit, I'll need custom driveshafts. It will add a few inches to the trans/tcase assembly plus the 205 tcase doesn't have a slip yoke in the tail section. Its all gonna have to be redone. I am thinking about trying to find a whole parts...

Nice Kenny. Mine should be looking similar before too long.

I'm not fond of the autoshifted trannies in rigs these days either. I'm planning on running a sm465/np205 with a ranger o/d unit on it. The ranger can split every gear on a 465 so and also mounts in front of the trans so counting the low range on the tcase, it will effectively give me 16 forward...

Mine only has to live long enough for me to collect parts for a manual swap. I hate slushboxes.

I need more fuel. The more boost i run, the cooler it runs. At 9 psi, it wouldn't go above 550 degrees. I turned down the boost on the turbomaster because there was no point in drive pressure that high no more fuel.

Thanks missy. I am looking at a .31 plunger pump off a humvee on ebay right now. I guess to get the benefit I'm looking for, I'm gonna have to break down and replace the ip. Might play with the timing a little bit when I do. Anyone gonna chime in about the differences in the LD and HD pumps?

Thanks for the replies but PLEASE read my first post. I know all about the 4911 pump. I would like the info you have. I have read the faq several times. It's rather vague. Some HP rating but overall, I consider it an incomplete record. I'm also not convinced that the 4911 pump is the one i want...

yeah, the 4911 had larger plungers but there were some others. Thats not what I'm trying to find out. If the the light duty and heavy duty pumps are all the same plunger size, whats the differences in them? Is it just the factory setting of the fuel pump?

I'm trying to research the db2's and to learn more about them. My pump is maxed out and i still have yet to see more than around 700 degrees egt in 4th gear with the tc locked up accelerating up a hill. That is with my turbomaster set at 8psi peak boost. I know that the first numbers of the...

Pics are on my buildup thread.

Yep but the engine looks much cleaner without one so i'm gonna work on fixing leaks and might run a larger crankcase vent hose to the catch can to help vent pressure.

I agree. Stay away from TTB front suspension.

Nice numbers. Congrats.

My glass pack should be here today. I've developed an oil leak that appears to be due to blowby (does it under boost but not at idle) so i have to try and find where that is coming from. I am also considering running a larger crancase vent hose to the catch can. I'm definetly gonna have to rig...

I think if i was building one, i think i would shoot for around 19.2 to 19.5. Shouldn't be as tempermental to start and would feel a little safer about running higher boost levels. I would think that you would run into problems getting enough fuel out of a stanadyne pump before boost pressure...

the way it reads on their website, They have a license to build cummins engines in their own plants. they say paccar on the motor, but they are cummins designs and the parts interchange.

Good luck with that. Cat is out of the OTR engine market as of the end of this year. Guess you'll be buying used. I wonder if the volvo/mack engines are any good. PACCAR is going to all cummins engines since cat is out of the game. That leaves you with detroit/mercedes, navistar or mack/volvo.

I use an autometer diesel tach with an alternator pickup. It seems to be pretty accurate. I used a phototach from harbor freight to calibrate it.

You might be able to clear the pipe between the frame rails. Should definetely clear the crossover with the front drive shaft with a 4 inch suspension.

The only way a body lift would help is if you want to run the exhaust pipe inside the frame rail. A suspension lift will help clear the crossover pipe. I ran a 2.5 inch crossover so there isn't much clearance for the driveshaft. Won't be a problem after i get my lift kit on. How big of a body...