Search results

I might not stay and play a whole lot, but I do lurk. I'll let you know how things work out I suppose. It should be here in a couple days. Hope everything works ok tomorrow...I have to tow another 2700 lb trailer a mere 22 miles.

I stopped and had Advance Auto check for any codes in the OBD II. The only code found was an old code for my turbo boost blah blah blah that I never cleared out. That issue has since been resolved with a turbo-master and the SES hasn't come on since. Like I said above, I have a new flight...

I just bought a brand new PMD, cable, and heat sink. We'll see if that helps.

Could a failing PMD cause the vehicle to go into limp mode? That would explain no overdrive.

I'm starting to lean towards PMD right now. Last night I drove 3 hours to pick up a trailer, and then about an hour into the trip back home with the 2700 lb trailer attached, 4th gear disappeared again. Once I made it to where I was taking the trailer, I turned my engine off and put the hood...

Didn't make it to Auto Zone last night. The vehicle does not die when I open the drain petcock. Grounds have already been cleaned. It wouldn't be too difficult for me to add extra grounds. I have a mess of 1/0 wire I picked up a few years ago and several ring terminals for it. I've always...

The lift pump was one of my first guesses when the engine stalled. It's less than 6 months old, but I tested that it was flowing by using the jumper wire at the plug up by the underhood fuse box. I opened the bleeder and it bled fuel on the ground just fine. I hope it's not the PMD, but it...

I got all of the grounds listed in the sticky about grounds cleaned up. I didn't test for resistance, but the grounding straps appeared to be in good shape. I still have not been able to reproduce the issues I was having. I'll swing by the store tonight if I have time to get the codes read...

Could you give me a better description of where these grounds are. I don't have a manual and I'm not horribly familiar with this vehicle yet. I am leaning towards an electrical/sensor issue myself, but I want to see what others think too. Grounds make sense (electrical), but I'm not sure if...

I have a '99 Suburban 1500 with a 6.5 and almost 240k on the clock. I bought it approximately 12-15k miles ago, I don't remember. It's also raining it's balls off outside and I don't have a garage to work in... Yesterday someone crashed into my Camry on the way to work and it's not...

Years ago I had a shop change the radiator in my s10 Blazer. They sent 3 radiators back to the dealership before they got one that didn't leak on a pressure test. New radiators can leak too!

Off of the top of my head, I don't remember, but I think it might have been 10-32 or something like that. It is definitely metric simply because that's what I picked up at the hardware store.

I've thought about doing my entire blazer in the duplicolor stuff. I like the idea of getting the roof done too. I may just do that to the burb for roof protection if I put something up there.

Sounds good to me, unless you plan on running boost at or near 15 PSI at some point. You might want more range if you do, but stock or close to stock boost pressures that is the best gauge to use.

http://www.thetruckstop.us/forum/showthread.php?30501-Tapping-for-a-exhaust-temp-gauge&p=359991&viewfull=1#post359991 Gauge pod, gauges, and home-made turbo master built. It's set for 11 PSI max right now and works like a charm.

Gauge pod and gauges: Intake tapped: Home-made turbo master:

Well, I still need to snap some pics, but I got the gauge pod installed, gauges wired in, and boost line hooked into my intake via drill and tap method. I went with Glow Shift tinted 7 color gauges. 35 PSI boost gauge and 1500 degree pyro. I know they're not the best quality, but they should...

I've already considered the boost bolt, but if I'm gonna be tapping for a pyro, it's peanuts to tap my own intake too.

awesome, thanks

I found a picture of the pyro install just now, actually...