I just popped apart my fuse/relay center to see what wires go to what pins on the starter relay.
PURPLE goes to pin 87 (AKA B7) on the relay. This goes to the starter solenoid. It has continuity to ground, but when 12v are applied to it, it spins the starter.
PURPLE/WHITE goes to pin 85...
New neutral safety switch didn't solve the problem. Now I know it's in the wiring somewhere.
AK Diesel, on page 3 you gave me some copied pages. I can't make out the diagram at all. I can read the other 3 pages well enough. On the 2nd page of the step-by-step on solving the problem in step...
I didn't know how to check it, but before you had the chance to ask I thought the same thing and ordered a new one from Advance Auto Parts. They had a sale going on today, so it was under $30 with tax. I just got it installed and was about to go try it out. Came inside for the mechanic's...
I just took the wiring harness off of the neutral safety switch. With the key in RUN, I have no power to the purple or the purple/white wire. With the key in START, I have 12v to the purple wire.
Everything works properly from the ignition switch up to that point. Clearly the problem is...
I put 12v to pin 87, which is just the other end of the wire that leads to the solenoid on the starter. That spins the starter and cranks the motor but even with the key in the RUN position, the vehicle doesn't actually run. I suspect it has a lot to do with too much fuel being dumped in after...
I went outside to get my stuff ready for work tomorrow and while I was out there I stuck my DMM where the 10a crank fuse would go in the fuse block in the dash. When the key is in RUN, there is no voltage. When the key is in START, there are 12v. So from the ignition switch to the fuse block...
I'm sure I could solder some wire to a light bulb and test it. To me, it's sounding a lot more like I have some melted together wires somewhere along the way, likely between the neutral safety switch and fuse relay center.
Pin 85 and pin 86 are reversible on standard Bosch relays. It's simply to close a circuit. Pin 85 on the truck should be ground and pin 86 should be the ignition switched source.
Looks like I'll start tracing wiring on Thanksgiving since I work tomorrow.
It appears I need to follow the yellow wire from the ignition switch to the fuse block in the dash first. If I remove that 10A crank fuse and test there to see if the wire gets 12v when in RUN, then the problem is...
What would make pin 86 have power when the key is in the RUN and START position? Pin 86 should only have power when in START position. Also, why don't I have continuity to ground on pin 85? If I manually ground pin 85 and turn the key to RUN, the starter cranks but the motor never runs.
Just rechecked the function of the relay. It APPEARS that pin 30 is still constant 12v. Pin 85 is the ignition switched source (RUN or START) which powers pin 86 with 12v via the relay. Pin 87 still goes to the starter and my best guess is that it should be seeing 12v at some point. I don't...
Ok, so I had pin 86 and pin 85 switched around above. Pin 86 is a constant ground and pin 85 gets the power when the key is on.
Now I'm not sure I had things 100% right earlier, but it appears that I have 12+v on pin 85 whenever the key is in the RUN or START position. If that's the case...
I tested the wires to the starter. Obviously, the large power wire has ~12.5v on battery power. When my wife turns the key to START, I have 0 volts on the ignition wire at the starter. I reinstalled the starter.
I went up to the underhood fuse/relay center and yanked the relay. The...