ya know..
by the time im done getting all these "little" issues out of the way, everything external has been replaced..
my piston/rod is going to jump out and say "hey!! what about me?!?!?"
sheeez... knock on wood!!!
well.. youre opening up a can of worms with this one.. but
suspension
braking
steering
axle
and final price
all these play a role on making your truck legal and safe to haul that load
but.. as a towable, it falls under your combined gvw, your GVW is what your truck is designed to...
the LP was healthy 2 weeks, 120 miles ago.. tested using the pint trick, and past with flying colors, overflowed the WHOLE pint in under 20 secs
now, about that bad part, LP bad for a while? ip on its own? can go bad? what kind of time frame are we talking about.. this IP was dealer exchanged...
im really not trying to crank up my post count.. i swear ):h i swear lol..
i need verification from the pros.. yah.. thats you guys.. you know who you are ):h :cheers2:
but i need to know which is likely the culprit, theres irony to this story.. but ill tell you later
driving down 95...
speaking from my gas engine rebuilding days.. those holes were purposely left smaller to combat overcooling, to allow coolant to "grab" more heat in its way out, something about cooler antifreeze, rapid flowing against hot metal will flash crack, starting at surface cracks and eventually lead to...
running hot, no heat in back, hot but soft hose, geyser..
all indicative of air in the system..
either from a 2 way leak.. allowing coolant to flow out, and air in, or.. worse yet, a bad head gasket allowing compression into the water jacket.. start looking for a coolant leak and hope...
it all depends on how the truck was "ordered" back in 2000.. mine was ordered with a 10k gvw rating, but DRW trucks start at 7k and go up to 12k gvw.. and more so when ordering packages for combined gvw while pulling, but like i said.. all depending on how deep the original owners pocket was who...
yah.. you noticed huh?.... disappointing to say the least, but FWIW, i havent even gone back there since i posted it.. i just threw it there to see what kind of replies i would get.. you know how it is, the more the merrier.. but in all reality, i think that was it..
and what i originally...
wow.. ive already started a search for a tech1 or 2, wow.. they are up there arent they?!?! are they the ONLY bi-directional that can be used? a bunch of my friends have the latest (within the last 18 months) matco and snapon units
i didnt change my IP, i opened it up to see for any residue...
when you say "bump" im assuming you mean the optical bump? im planning on that as well.. so if i do the bump it will see the 7?
edit:
yah.. just read i need a tech1 or tech2, anyone have on by any chance ? :)
hey TD.. thanks for chiming in..
so? in order to teach it the 7? i have to do a TDC offset learn? is that a procedure i can do? im trying to find info on it but getting alot of googlegobble
ok.. i have another one for you guys.. your opinions have grown to be more valuable than the local diesel "specialist" shop.. yah right.. lol...
after diagnosing a failing PMD, ive ordered the beefed up Dtech.. should be here right after the weekend..
but..
1) most important, would a...
i did, a whole bunch of googlegobble came up.. like 300 threads or something.. but i didnt think of going to the tech section, but thanks jefaire, thanks for the part number
hey guys..
i just order a sh*t load of stuff for my truck..
triple gauge pillar pod, gauges, 2 1/4" xover, 3" DP, 4" straight exhaust, no cat/muffler/resinator, marine injectors from pensicola (planning on GL-4 soon enough)
but in the meantime till i get the cash flow up for heath...
i just called the local privately owned AP and told them the sizes i needed in grade 8, and yes.. they are actually 10.5 hardness due to the metalurgy of the metal when its that thick, or something like that.. who cares.. lol, :thumbsup: but the poor guys there took about 3 hours to find them...
yah.. its SSD's
i cleaned everything up and the truck seems to be back to normal.. but i didnt get a chance to get it hot yet, driving around the block i dont think will cut it, so ill update again tomorrow when i can stretch it out some on the highway
oh.. ok, good to know, the IP ground is at the IP and the cooler is screwed into metal, i just wire brushed the bolts that hold the PMD onto the cooler,
as far as the PMD on the IP, yah, i tried that a little while ago.. truck wouldnt start, so im assuming that one is fried