I think I got it figured out thanks to Bill Heath.This is a new block and I don't have the old one so when I assembled it I didn't have any of the plugs,They are still in the old block 100 miles away,so Ihad to buy them. So the rear oil gally plugs are 3/8 pipe and when I tried 3/8 plugs on the...
The shop installed the cam bearings and I didn't check their alignment but Bobbie posted this on his thread
Actually its the other way around for us. The main engines we rebuild are British 4 cylinder A series engines (Minis) and we have the tool to remove and replace the cam bearings. But on...
"The block has a groove behind the bearings, so the cam can get oil no matter how the oil holes are aligned."
Bison mentioned that the cam bearing holes might not be lined up and could be causing my no upper oil problem but from your quote this shouldn't be the case.Maybe I blew out the O rings...
That's what i thought but what if the return for the center turbo is not a passive return to the pan but rather supplies oil to the rest of the top end?
Bobbie, what are your plans to deal with the center turbo mount?I put two O rings in the recess and put a plate over it, but I'm thinking it's keeping oil from getting to the top end.Do you know where the path goes after the center turbo.I'm thinking I might need to take out the O rings and just...
Well I pulled the pan again and was able to set the plug a 1/4" deeper but that's not the problem. when I had the pan off the piston wrist pins were dripping with oil and there was oil in the main bearing so I believe I'm getting oil to the lower end. The pump builds pressure,not on the gauge...
No there is a plug that that goes in the vertical bore on the left side under the rear main cap. It goes up in there about 3 inches where there's a shoulder where the bore gets smaller. Just below the installed plug is a cross bore oil galley. Bill Heath said it goes clear in to a dead stop and...
How long did you run the oil pump with a drill?
I ran it for about a minute or so it the clock wise direction. I could feel the pump prime its self. I'm just used a socket to prime it and from what I've read that won't get oil to the top end.
Still no oil pressure
What am I doing wrong now? I assembled a new motor on a GEP style block. First I left out the oil bypass valves, then I left out the soft plug under the rear main bearing cap, both of these have now been installed and I still can't get oil pressure! What else might I have...
S O S
OK so I got the bypass valves from the dealer and installed them and I'm still building pressure in the cooling lines. I don't have a manual that even mentions these bypass valves much less any instructions on how to install them. The filter bypass just sets in the hole driven in like you...
I went to the dealer and looked at their diagram and there two ,one for the cooler and one for the filter.I looked under my truck and see where they go so I don't need the pics but thanks for the great info. I'm just so happy I don't have to pull it back out!!!
I'm turning the drill clockwise. I just read some about the bypass valves and I didn't install them in this new block .:mad2: So I guess I yank it back out and pull the pan. Where do these valves go? I got some part #'s for older 6.2 6.5's But not sure about the GEP. does anyone have pictures of...
I just rebuilt my 6.5 with a GEP knock off block. While it was still on the stand I pluged the cooler line ports and tried to prime it with a socket and drill. I didn't know I had to loop the cooler ports. While trying to prime it it just built pressure. When I stopped the drill I could hear oil...
the motor is already assembled so I don't think I want to try to tap it so I think I'll make a plate w/ gasket. There are two bolt holes so it should be fine, I think?
Thanks
I'm building a motor with a GEP knock off block and there is a spot next to the oil pump gear drive that is meant for maybe a mechanical fuel pump?
What is the best way to block this off? Soft plugs?