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I just got my gep from Ted's running but I have lots of oil leaks. Both sides from above mabye valve covers but I silicones them down. I suspect a bad cdr. I put my mighty vac in the dipstick tube and read zero vacuum at idle

Leroy I bought after market diamonds off ebay for I think $80. They are not non farious(spell?) and they stuck up just a hair. I have read of some people milling the pocket of the heads but my machine shop installed them and milled the cups flush with the head. Good or bad I don't know.

The pics of yours look just like mine. The lower end is nice and clean just a little car on on the tops of the pistons. But the water jackets are pretty gunky. Do you think if I put one of those drain kings (one do those expandable water weenies ) in the water cross over with a hose and ran it...

I ordered them last Oct. your price is great. I saw them for over $200 all over the place.

I got my studs from KT Preformance for $173.73 shipped.

This motor was out of a Hummer so what pre cups should be in it? Is that motor from Teds? I have one from them and the add says there from hummers but Margret couldn't say if it was turboed or not. I pulled the heads to stud it and use +.10 gaskets. The precups were n/a small square dot...

The inner fenders have 15 or 16 15mm bolts and an impact gun makes quick work of them. Truck on jack stands and tires off of corse. There is one small 1/4" screw in the bumper or cowel or what ever it is.

The first time I pulled a 6.5 I dropped the trans first. That was a LOT of extra work. You can support the trans with a jack or put a 2x4 across the torsion bars to keep it up. Motor mounts are easy through the inner fenders. About 5 min each. A 17mm box end on the front of the bolt(it will...

Lots of extensions help on the pass side bellhousing bolts

If you remove the inner fenders stuff is easier to get to. I just pulled the motor in my k3500 and I got 5 of the 6 bellhousing bolts from below and the drivers side top one from above. It's not too bad the fuel lines are attached to that stud so you have to remove them first. Be patient with...

This is where the grounds are on my '95. Where should they be? Any other bolt?

Great idea! I just e mailed them a link.

It was a bare block and I washed it and blew out the out the oil passages and if I would have known more about the oil path through the block I might have found the blockage. I'm don't entirely blame Clearwater I just think their screw you attitude is really bad business and I would never deal...

If you saw my thread about no oil pressure on a new build knock off GEP block from Clear water, you know that I was having trouble getting oil to the top end of my motor.Well after hours of troubling shooting ,asking lots of questions, fixing mistakes like missing bypass valves,and oil galley...

Did you also locate the hole in the rear cam bearing at 4:00? My stock 6.5 had the rear at 12:00. From the picture the front w/ two holes is at 6 & 4 ? Thanks

Bobby, do you have the part # for the correct clevite cam bearings?

http://www.thetruckstop.us/forum/attachment.php?attachmentid=6000&d=1239606227 I tried the 1 1/2" pipe trick but in my case it plugged the oil passage created by the groove in the pump drive and did not allow oil to flow anywhere.

I think thats DB2's only.

Try your tire stores.I got OEM wheels for my '94 for $100 for the set.

Yea I'm glad ,it didn't take much effort to get them out. But with the front cover off and the plugs out I tried to prime it again with a 11/2" plastic pipe in the pump drive hole to seal the oil passage and I still can't get oil to the top.It's frustrating but education is never free.