LOL, yeah it freaked me out when I turned mine on the first time!!):h But since then it makes a very reasurring sound when I trun the key and lets me know its easily pumping fuel.:thumbsup: should have tanke pis of it to. Might next chance I get. I mounted it on the back side of the tranny...
I made my own charge wire and included a fusible link in it to prevent burning down my truck. I should have taken pics yesterday when I replaced the alternator. Sorry to say that if your alt is factroy it won't put out much charge at low RPM's, not designed for it. Install a larger guage wire...
YIKES!!!!!:confused::eek: I don't think I'd want to ride in that truck!! The pitman arm is intended to be a extremly tight fit on the steering shaft. If it fell off when the nut was removed that meant it was loose all that time and could have jummped the splines or worse stripped them out at any...
That's the plan for my Blazer when I return from Italy in approximately 3.5 years. Gonna save up some money and buy all the parts (frt/rr Dana 60's prob 203/205 doubler transfer etc....) so when I return all I have to do is find the time. Might even drop in a rebuilt engine and tranny as these...
Since we're on this subject, does anyone have a diagram of the HVAC system under the dash that shows component layout. My Blazer only blows out of the dash right now and I need to fix it soon. Just want to same some time searching out the right part. thanks.
I think it's been done and IIRC the AC box on that body style will interfere with turbo fitment. As far as the IP it would need to be calibrated to match the extra airflow or you would not be getting enough fuel. If the truck runs fine as is why bother. If you need more power move up to a newer...
I only speak for the lever activated transfer here. I dont know how reliable the electric activated transfer is. But yes the posi lock takes care of the problimatic front axle engagement.
And thats why this forum is here, so we can help each other out.
The transfer has a similar colar that engages the front drive shaft. If you lock the front end the driveshaft will turn but power from the engine will not go to the front axle unless you place the transfer in 4X4.
The TLA pushes a rod into a colar that rest on the axle shaft which is split into two pieces where it exits the differential. The colar is splined like any axle shaft and joins both halves of the axle together. So one side of the diff is always turning regardless of 4X4 use. When the transfer...
True but you are also running 2 u-joints not 4 CV joints. U-joints bind more than CV's do. You might feel some binding but if I remember right about the kit you can also unlock it by turnning a set screw and movint the rod as it is adjustable. Personaly I'd just leave it locked.
Posi lock actually sells a full time lock kit for the front axle. Myself I can't see any reason to worry about the front end being locked all the time. It's basicly the same as a front wheel drive system in a car. As long as you leave the transfer in 2wd it won't bind up but if you forget it...
I'd check the 200.00 truck first and see if it's fixable before going after a used HMMWV engine as those things are the very defination of abused. Especialy the up-armored ones. Way to much weight for the vehicle and if used in Afghanistan then I for sure wouldn't want it.
Yeah I meant to take a pic of mine whenI removed it. Darn thing looked like it had been run over by a forklift, whacked up against a pole, drug behind another truck then installed. New pipe fits but boy is it close.... anyway I love the sound and preformance.