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Yep, only reason GM went with that handle design is the Kodiak sits higher than the C/K's and you couldn't lift the original handle to open the door. Keep this in mind, GM wouldn't redesign something that already worked to save money. Just like Tahoe's/Blazer's all have the ability to mount barn...

Well one advantgage to the Walbro is that it's rebuildable so cost in the long run is less. With the stock pump you just have no choice but to replace when dead. That was my main reason for going that route. Also the Walbro is quieter than the stock one by a lot.

Not that I knew about, so if it did it's too late now.

And several sizes of zip-ties.....

I used the 3M kit for 20 bucks and it works great.... One thing I learned was to grind/sand off the little alignment pins that no one ever uses anyway.

Balancer didn't look bad to my eye and it only has 180000 miles on it IIRC. Mine currently has 240000+ on it and looks no worse than his. In short it just didn't seem to need it and the puley is'nt that hard to do if it needs it later. 1 Belt and four bolts. Truck is considerbly quieter now BTW.

Here's the balancer for those that want to see it.

You know in all fairness you did do most of the work while I stood around taking pictures! But glad I could "help".

I'll try to figure out how to upload the video of the pulley while it was still on the truck. MODs a lil help here!

As you can see the pulley simply has four 15mm bolts holding it on to the balancer, no need for a puller to remove. If its stuck a few taps with a rubber mallet should free it. Installing the new one is a simple as bolting it in place and re-installing the accessory drive belt.

On the plus side GM did design this part so that if it did (and it most likely will) fail. It won't fly off causing severe damage. It seems they installed a bearing in the center that would only turn if the rubber broke down and the outer ring was free to turn. they even thoughtfully included a...

When removed we see that the rubber has lossened itself form the outer ring and allows the pulley to rotate until contact is made with the attaching bolts causing this:

Ok helped Gunner0812 a little on his truck today and thought I would post some pics of the work.This is the offending part.

Alway put a new Pressure Plate and disc in at the same time. Just makes sense along with repalcing your rear main seal while your there. Just saves time and money later.:thumbsup:

Nice!!!!

Yeah I just ordered a new 8 gang fuse block from them to add some more circuts on the Blazer. They have a lot of great products. I used the apliance switches to make my switch panel, which I need to finish somtime soon so I can post some pics of it.

Anyone got a part number???

I made my own cables for mine out of welding cable. Ok, what you'll need: Large guage welding cable Lugs, sized to the cable to solder on the ends for side mounts(I never use top mount just personal pref) Heat shrink tubing with glue (you can get it in black and red here...

Oh yeah, best part about the whole AAMCO thing was the tow. It only cost me 50 bucks to get the truck to within a quarter mile of the house and I was able to drive it in 1st to get it home. Plan on driving it Friday night around midnight after work to get it on base. Hoping trafic will be a lot...

Wife found them online, but I talked to them on the phone and so far all seems well. They are located in Richmond VA so I had to pay state tax cause I'm in Va Beach. Trust me I'll let you guys know if they try to rip me off. The parts are used but no core charge or shipping and 3 year warranty...