Search results

It should be ready to drop back in this weekend. I wasn't planning on getting much done last night other than cleaning up the shop (it's a friggin wreck right now) but it all started going together nicely so I hung out until about 10:30 last night getting it done.

Well, she's starting to take shape again. Got the turbos mounted, oil supply and drains are run, and it's ready for piping. Drain flanges for the turbos..... Primary drain..... Secondary mounted and plumbed..... Twins mounted and plumbed.....

Well, I had intended to get the turbos hung yesterday, but I had to make some adapters to go in the block for the return lines and, I swear, every 1/2 NPT tap I have felt like it was trying to cut through diamond instead of aluminum. I about threw three sets of taps out of the shop. Took me...

That's the logo of the company that makes the kit, Wicked Diesels. The specific purpose of it is to relieve coolant pressure back at #5 and #6 where the coolant flow kind of sucks on these. The coolant pressure back there can exceed 90 psi and is one of the main causes of blown head...

It's actually really simple to get it out the way I have it setup now. I only have to disconnect 2 grounds, 2 positives and 1 main wire harness. Once the coolant is drained and the front of the truck is out of the way, it's just a matter of undoing the v-band for the exhaust, loosening the...

Mmmmmm.......bring on the sexiness! Coolant bypass..... All hot side parts coated and turbos reassembled.....

Speaking of turbos......I didn't realize I didn't post up the new babies.

Yeah, it's just SO much nicer to work on it with it out of the truck. With all the AN fitting and the wiring that I got rid of, it only takes about 2 hours to get the motor out of the truck, so it's SO worth it to work on it this way. Besides, it'll make mocking up the turbos much easier...

Got the motor back together yesterday. Just gotta start working the turbos now and it'll be ready to go back in. Sorry, these are all the pcitures I got....had distraction after distraction yesterday.

Yeah, not the look I was going for this soon. :mad2:

Heeeeey, look kids.....It's Big Ben....Parliment. Seems like we were just here not too long ago.

Yeah, I just got it back on the road and noticed the head gasket leaking. I re-used the head studs, which I told myself not too, after I had loosened and re-torqued them a few times and they stretched the first time I really smashed it and lifted the head. Broke one of my own rules and it...

The motor will be out tomorrow, so long as the hoist holds out. We were putting the motor back in the Chevelle a few weeks ago and the ram started leaking. The new ram will be here this week, but I want the motor out and on the stand today. Got about an hour or so of work left to...

Your block isn't setup for a stiffener. The stiffener plates didn't come out until the 97 models when they swapped to what they called the Encore blocks. So yeah, the only thing you can really do is stud the mains. For 800 - 1000 ft / lbs you're fine. There are guys running up in the 1500...

Here we go again. Time to rip it apart and make room for the new twins. The setup is going to be a Borg S364 over a Borg S480.

Well, that's good and not so bad........ I forgot you said it's a '95 motor, those are the pre-Encore blocks and don't have the stiffeners. That makes it MUCH easier to do the main studs...no modding is needed.

If you want to stud the mains, which I'd suggest, you'll need to modify the block stiffener to clear the studs and nuts. Some guys will do the studs and not re-install the stiffener (basically to avoid doing the work on the stiffener).....I don't recommend this if you plan on putting any...

Here's what you're looking at. These are the common rail tappets. Whenever I put them in, I polish the flat face of them that rides against the cam until it's almost a mirror to reduce the friction on the cam lobe. This is with the block upside down looking down at the tappets...

The tappets are what sit on top of the cam and actuate the push rods.....basically the lifters if talking about a SBC or BBC. The 12V's had the worst tappets....softest metal and narrowest bases. Whenever you swap a cam or do pushrods on a 12V, you always want to swap out those tappets...

How many miles are on that motor? Do yourself a favor..... Order an upper and lower gasket set, main and rod bearings, main and head studs, swap the tappets for some common rail tappets, and get a new oil pump and water pump and that thing will be pretty much bullet proof. No sense in...