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I'm not sure of the proper part names, and I'm afraid I've miscommunicated. My new cylinder came with a bleed screw, a spring, 2 plungers, and 2 dust boots. There is a rod that sticks through the center of the dust boot, that sits between the plunger and the shoe. That rod is the part I'm...

OK. Here are the pictures I promised. The axle without the Backing Plate: The backing plate. The "Mickey Mouse" shaped hole for the wheel cylinder. The ears are the bolt holes. One of the wheel cylinder bolts. To get a 1/2" socket on these, I had to wire-brush off the loose rust, and...

It sounds like I've been misled and/or misinformed about the lubricity issue. Intuitively, it's not obvious why removing glycerin and converting esters would massively improve the lubricity of VO. I would very much appreciate pointers to reliable sources of information on this. Thanks, -jpg

Golf tee -- sounds good. Thanks. The drive train on this truck is well maintained. The tranny is new. The body has typical rust. The utility bed is close to ideal for my purposes. The undercarriage has rust issues, as you've seen. I sometimes wonder if it's worth fixing, or if it's a...

I wire brushed off the corrosion where the parts meet, sprayed it with PB, put a 2X4 against it and pounded away with a small sledge. No movement. So I tried hitting the steel directly with the sledge, and rust rained out of the joint. I started with gentle blows, moving from corner to corner...

I'd like to read more about this. Can you provide pointer(s) to further detail? From what I've read, SVO has much higher lubricity than Ultra-Low Sulpher Diesel. As for svo/biodiesel lubricity, I understood that lubricity varies more by the vegetable oil used than by whether anyone has...

I got the brake fitting out without ruining anything. What do you folks use to plug the brake lines while you're working? I wrapped it with electrical tape, to keep it clean, but the brake fluid seems to dissolve the adhesive on the tape, so I'm not optimistic that this is a good approach...

No, I haven't attempted these brake line fittings yet. Weeks ago I was working on corroded fuel line fittings, and they were hopelessly fused together. I rounded them off trying to get them apart, then I replaced the fuel line with fuel hose. I'll get a set of flare wrenches. I'll need them...

OK. What's the best tool for this? I tried this on the fuel line with open-ended and flare wrenches, and all I did was round the corners of the fitting. I ended up replacing the fuel line with hose. Someone later told me the fitting was metric. I was using standard wrenches, not metric...

I think I'm screwed. The photo below shows the brake line, bolts, and presumably a bleed screw behind the cylinder, prior to my hosing them down with penetrating oil. I'll try spray, heat, and divine intervention to get these loose without breaking the line, but I'm not optimistic. I expect...

I removed all the old parts. When I took the plungers out of the sides of the cylinder, brake fluid came out one side. So it looks like I'm replacing the cylinder also. I'm worried about rusty fittings failing as I remove and re-install the brake lines. I really don't want to have to replace...

http://www.oilcrusher.5u.com/index.html This guy has an interesting approach. He grows his own seeds, crushes it, and runs it in his diesels. He filters, adds gas, and burns it. No methanol. No toxic waste. I'm interested to hear what folks think of this approach. -jpg

Backing plate covers! That makes sense. They're about 1-1/2 by 5/16 inches. SA = Self Adjusting. I saw the term used elsewhere, and I assumed it was common usage. Sorry to be obscure. If you look under the blue spring in the photo, you can see a silver clip over the pivot pin hole. The pin...

I think I made some progress figuring this out, based on some exploded diagrams and on poking around the parts remaining on my truck. Unfortunately, I still have a few new parts left over. I bought the "all in one" kit plus the "self-adjuster" kit, and I think they each included an SA Arm...

OK. I now have all the parts & materials, but I'm still waiting on my Service Manual. I can see where most of the parts go, based on looking at the existing hub. I laid them out in rough position in the photo below. But I have several parts left over, shown below the shoes in the photo...

I got the kits. They don't include the Brake Drum Bar. Mine got mangled: Evidently this part rarely fails, so no one stocks it. It's a special order item, so I ordered one. I also found a chunk missing from my aft shoe, so I got new shoes. Before taking apart the brake, I sat with my new...

I used this to lift the rear bumper about 4 feet, so I could get blocks under the axle. http://www.harborfreight.com/60-inch-3-1-2-half-ton-farm-jack-66183.html It took some effort, but it worked well. It lives in the back of the truck, along with a bumper crane, come-along, tools, spare...

Well, I think I found the problem. I'm no expert mechanic, but I bet those parts sitting at the bottom of my drum really belong somewhere else. :eek: That explains the unhappy noises I was getting from this wheel. I'm glad I didn't try to drive it to a mechanic. See the nice, new parking...

So it seems I have the fully floating axle, which means I do have to pull the axle to pull the drums, but I do not have to open the differential in order to pull the axle. The bolts holding the axle cap in place took substantially more torque than the lug nuts did. I ordered a bigger torque...