I was surprised, tapered bolt popped right loose from knuckle.
I did have a fair size pry bar onnit but usually have to rap on the knuckle where the bolt goes through to get them to pop loose.
The nut wasnt real tight too.
An alignment shop installed those for me.
Checking balling joints.
The upper control arms has not that many miles and time on them. I replaced them maybe five or six years ago.
Both lowers good, left upper good.
Right upper.
Also got a replacement 30 PSI sending unit for the FP gauge from GlowShift.
Get that installed and see how long it will last.
If they dont want it back the flange will get ground off and then the rheostat within will get scrutinized and picked apart to figure out why this one was a failure.
I am...
I need to get to the garage and check steer components on my truck.
Figure what that pop feel/sound is coming from.
Oh wait, I’m too full right now.
Maybe tomorrow, 80% chance of rain. That will be much better.
Cat has never used split lock warshers.
Always hard flat warshers only.
Their thoughts and ways are best.
Why would any install a component thats already broke on anything.
Many times I have used that theory, pulled lock washers and installed hard flart warshers.
To get to the signature line tap on Your name in any post, popup happens, tap on Your name again, a menu bar, right side of that bar says about.
Scroll down to signature.
Type away.
Throttle position sensor, shut off solenoid and maybe a stepper motor for advance or possibly cold engine fast idle.
I’m not familiar with all the connections on a DB2 pump.
I have a ground on the left side of My truck.
Seems the headlamps and etc might be connected to that.
I run a 10 gauge ground wire from that to the engine block.
I have read that adding extra grounding wires can be counter productive but I did not want to depend on a flimsy body to battery...