What modification needs to be done to the oil line? Anything major? I'd be doing this in my driveway with basic hand tools. I've had the turbo on and off a couple times, but modification makes me nervous.
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Gents, I want to say thanks for all the feedback. It's been great hearing about your experiences with different components. You've given me much to think about. When I make changes, I'll definitely let you know. BTW, the ATT isn't just drop-it-in-and-drive-away, is it? I know the intake has...
I get that feeling every so often. My daily driver is a 2002 Chevy Cavalier. The Burb is the family bus. Unfortunately, my four kids, my wife and I won't all fit in a Fiat 500. That'd be something to see, though.
It had a cold air intake on it when I bought it. It's not a full box, but it has an L-shaped separator that keeps the filter away from the engine heat.
Thanks for the info about tires. I'll check into that as well.
Good question. I got a knock after an incident of heavy acceleration. I called Heath Diesel to confirm my suspicion of a bad injector. Bill recommended these Canadian made HO injectors. He said as long as I'm not pulling a lot of weight, I'd see better performance; with a lot of weight it...
I don't know. I hadn't touched the thermostats since I bought it, but I had it at the shop recently for an issue with my heat. They said one of the thermostats was stuck and the other looked like it was for a Cummins. They replaced both. The receipt said ACDelco Premium, but they didn't list...
Piggybacking off this thread, diesel's at $4.39 in my area right now. Even with my $0.08 off with my Sheetz card, it still took $162 to fill my Suburban last fillup. This is getting old. I usually get about 13.5-15 (don't do a lot of highway driving). The past 2 fillups have been 13 and...
I'm with Ferm on the power steering pump. Mine was leaking when I bought it. When I replaced it, I had to work out a bubble in the system before my steering and brakes came back. It felt exactly how you're describing it. That'd be the next place I'd check.
My question about this is changing the front end gears. I'm guessing if you do the back without doing the front, you can't use your 4WD. I've read that the back is pretty easy to do while the front requires taking the whole front end apart. Any thoughts on that?
Possibly. Mine only leaked under pressure while it was running. Once I shut it off, it would drip as the valley emptied, then no leak. Never had a hard start issue either. Only thing wrong with it was the puddle under it after it ran.
If it's running out of the back of the valley, there's a good chance it's the FFM. I had a fuel leak about 6 months ago, and had to replace it. It could also just be one of the connections to the FFM is rotted or leaking. That's where I'd start since it's relatively easy to get to.
I've had this code pop twice on my '98 Suburban. Both times were right after I had put the pedal to the floor while getting on I-70. I have a Heath TurboMaster, but I haven't had the dollars to do the ECM yet. Since I got the code only after I had REALLY stepped on it, I chalked it up to the...
I just found this out last month when my motorcycle clutch leaked, and I had to replace the fluid: DOT 4 has a higher breakdown temperature than DOT 3. That's all the rating means. You can put DOT 4 fluid in a system designed for DOT 3 with no ill effects.
Gentlemen, sorry for the delay. I have no idea how you guys managed to cram all this stuff up into the area where the stock lift pump is. I couldn't get mine to fit, so I moved it behind the crossmember on the frame. My setup is just below the passenger door. I had to extend the plug, but I...
So, I put in the new fuel pump relay, and that didn't do anything. I put the old one back in and kept the new one for a rainy day. I saw another post about a similar issue that showed a fuse on the wiring harness feeding the lift pump, but I was unable to find something like that under my...